Baruntse (7129m/23,389ft) peak is located in the heart of the Himalaya, the Khumbu. It is in very close vicinity to Mount Everest and Mount Makalu.It is located away from the standard trekking paths so climbers can experience a sense of being in a remote area without investing considerable amount of time and effort. The Baruntse expedition becomes increasingly popular with climbers wishing to escape from the peak climbing on the overcrowded Ama Dablam and Pumori. Baruntse expedition is a month long adventure and an extraordinarily aesthetic objective for peak climbing in Nepal. The summit of Baruntse is located at: 27°52'19'' N / 86°58'55'' E. Baruntse first became famous when a New Zealand expedition including Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow summited the peak on May 30, 1954 via the Southeast Ridge. This has now become the normal route for most Baruntse expeditions
There are two ways of trekking to the peak. One is from Lukla via Mera La Pass (5800m) and Hunku glacier with the possibility of climbing Mera peak as a part of adventure. The other is from Tumlingtar along the Makalu access trek and West Barun glacier. The first option includes a high pass crossover and walk out via Mera La Pass to Lukla, a full spectrum peak climbing adventure in Nepal. From the peak climbing aspect Baruntse has a bit more objective hazard then Pumori; On Baruntse you will encounter 50deg climbing slopes.The peak offers incredible views of Mt.Everest, Mt. Makalu and the surrounding Khumbu region peaks. The best chances of a successful summit are in the spring but the mountain is also climbable in the autumn.
Baruntse is also prone to cornice accumulation, which adds to aesthetics of the climb but at the same time it increases the objective danger of the climb making it prone to avalanche. Also, there is a prominent ice cliff at 7000m which could collapse. Baruntse expedition can be a good objective in preparation for Everest expedition.
Climbing 7000m requires slightly more acclimatization effort than peak climbing 5000m or even 6000m peaks. The remote location of Baruntse has an advantage for climbers in that it aids acclimatization while trekking either of the two approach routes. From the base camp (5350m)Baruntse requires two intermediate camps to execute the summit and to aid acclimatization.
Satori Adventures began to operator the precious Baruntse Expedition for technical mountain lovers. This mountain can be a good preparation climb for any 8000m expedition that you are dreaming up. Some prerequisites to this climb are experience on snow and ice, basic knowledge of using ice ax and crampons and one or two 6000m trekking peaks. We have fixed departures on the Baruntse Expedition for both spring and autumn seasons. Our high quality and well managed package for the Baruntse Expedition is set up for the mountain lovers who want to realize their dream of climbing a Himalayan peak..
Highest access: 7129m (23,389ft)
First Ascent: Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow, May 30, 1954 by New Zealand expedition
Duration: 37 Days
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Co-ordinates: 27°52'19'' N / 86°58'55'' E
Location: Khumbu Region/Barun
Country: Nepal
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Peu difficile (PD++)
Accommodation: Three star to five stars as request
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing
Transportation: Car, Flight, Tourist bus
Best season: Spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Culture: Tamang, Sherpa
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Southeast Ridge
Himalayan sights: Makalu, Mera, Kanchanjungha