The Mount Manaslu Expedition 8,163m (26,763ft) is usually a first choice for adventures climbers looking to climb an 8000m peak. The route was opened by Japanese climbers Mr. Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu on May 9, 1956. Attention was being put on Manaslu since 1950 when Mr. Harold William Tilman made a reconnaissance expedition of the peak. He stated that there is a potential route of ascent from the north-east.
Manaslu Peak also known as “Kutang" it is the eighth highest peak in the world. It in the central-western part of Nepal. The exact coordinates are: Latitude 28°33'01''N, Longitude 84°33'42''E. Its name, which means "mountain of the spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul". The Manaslu Expedition can be compared to Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Shishapangma expeditions. These 3 8000m peaks are considered to be the “easiest” out of the 14 8000m peaks in the world. We here back form a lot of experienced mountaineers that Mt. Manaslu is the best 8000m peak to climb to prepare for a Mt. Everest ascent.
It is recommended that you climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma for training before attempting Mt. Manaslu. The approache to Manaslu is stunning, the long ridges and wide glacier valleys make for a feasible approach from all directions. The peak towers steeply above the surrounding landscape. Normally, most of the climbers use the route of Northeast ridge to ascend to the summit, this is the standard fixed route. There are 6 different climbing routes on Mt. Manaslu. The South face is the most challenging. The standard route follows a relatively straightforward line to the summit, which has few technical sections. Normally, four camps are set up after Advanced Base Camp.However some of the strong climbers do a summit push from camp three. From the Base Camp, climbers has to bear a few stretches of steep climbing and crevasses from Camp I to Camp II, slippery snow climbing is required from Camp II to Camp III and possibility of facing avalanches from Camp III to Camp IV during the attempts. After the big avalanche in the spring of 2013, there are 3 to 4 sections in the icefall’s where there are 3-5 meters long latter’s in place.
Manaslu base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. Satori Adventures base camp will be setup for almost 35 days. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points with different group and strategic viewing positions of the Manaslu massif. Satori provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established and hot beverages and snacks will be available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss; it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp 1 which is at a height of 18,700ft/5800m. In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain including a few crevasses and short ice sections on the first section of glacier. Prior to the first section of glacier you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine. For average climbers it takes about 4 hours. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour, then you reach the crampon point at the mouth of the glacier, the glacier portion takes about 3 hours. Camp one is divided into two sections, lower camp 1 and upper camp 1, the distance between the two is 100m/328ft.
The climbing from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on Mt. Manaslu. During this section you encounter the heart of the icefall. The first section is just slogging over snow for about an hour, and then you encounter several steep section of ice, 2 ladder crossings and steep snow climbing. Expect that this section will take you about 5 hours. Expect that you will encounter several steep sections of ice that are 100m at a slope of 65º. For most people this is the crux of the route. Camp 2 is situated above the icefall on a snowy terrace.
Camp two to camp three is the shortest distance and will be your shortest climbing day. It does not require any ladder crossings, but there are a few crevasses that are roughly a half meter that need to be jumped. The main ropes are fixed by climbing Sherpa’s team. This section for most climbers feels easier, but still it is not to be taken lightly, the climbing is still on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. Although in spring there has been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm
Climbing from camp 3 to camp 4 feels like a long day, the distance of short nut now you are nearing the death zone. As all climbers as aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3-4 hours on steep snow that is on a 50-55º slope. This section is dangerous because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make ethos section avalanche prone. Comparing with other sections of the route, this portion is extremely physical with sustained steep snow sections at extreme altitude in avalanche terrain.
Summit day, the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 1:00 am. if all goes well they reach the summit between 7-10 am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp 4 from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp three for overnight stay. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.
Highest access: 8,163m (26,763ft)
First Ascent: Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu (Japan), May 9, 1956
Duration: 51 (typically) Days
Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group.
Co-ordinates: 28°32'58''N, 84°33'43''E
Location: Nepal/Manaslu Region/Lamjung District
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Low technical difficulty
Accommodation: Three star to five stars as request
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus
Best season: Spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
Major Activity: trekking/climbing
Include Activity: Sightseeing in Kathmandu
Culture: Tamang, Sherpa
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Northeast ridge
Himalayan sights: Buddha Himal, Annapurna, Ganesh Himal,
31 Aug/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft).
01 Sept/Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.
03 Sept/Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat (950m/3117ft) 7hrs. Tea house/camping
04 Sept/Day 04: Trek from Arughat to Sotikhola (1165m/3822ft)) 5hrs. Tea house/camping
05 Sept/Day 05: Trek from Sotikhola to Machhakhola(1330m/4364ft) 6hrs. Tea house/camping
06 Sept/Day 06: Trek from Machhakhola to Jagat(1350m/4430ft) 4hrs. Tea house/camping
07 Sept/Day 07: Trek from Jagat to Dang(2310m/7579ft) 6-7hrs. Tea house/camping
08 Sept/Day 08: Trek from Dang to Namrung(2681m/8589ft) 6hrs. Tea house/camping
09 Sept/Day 09: Trek from Namrung to Lho (3150m/10334ft) 5hrs. Tea house/camping.
10 Sept/Day 10: Trek from Lho to Sama Gaun(3780m/12401ft) 4hrs. Tea house/camping
11 Sept April/Day 11: Rest and acclimatization day at Sama Gaun (4359m/14301ft) Tea house/camping
12 Sept/Day 12: Trek from Sama Village to Manaslu Base Camp (4700m/15420ft) 4hrs. Camping at base camp
13-21 Oct/Day13-41: Climbing period. (8163m/26781ft.) Camping.
22 Oct/Day 42: Preparation to return to Kathmandu. Clean base camp (4700m/15420ft)
23 Oct/Day 43: Trek from Base Camp to Sama Gaun (3780m/12401ft) 3hrs. Tea house.
24 Oct/Day 44: Trek from Sama Gaun to Namrung(2550m/8366ft) 6hrs. Tea house/camping.
25 Oct/Day 45: Trek from Namrung to Philim village (2300m/7546ft-06hrs) Tea house/camping.
26 Oct/Day 46: Trek from Philim Village to Machakhola(1330m/4664ft) 6hrs. Tea house/ camping
27 Oct/Day 47: Trek from Machakhola to Arughat (950m3117ft) 8hrs. Tea house/camping.
28 Oct/Day 48: Drive from Arughat to Kathmandu (1350/4429ft) 7 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus.Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
29 Oct/Day 49: Free day.Relax and shop in Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.
30 May/Day 50: Transfer to KTM airport for final departure.
Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:
Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.
Satori Adventures offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship Mountaineering Expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Our Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, an in-Base camp service and High camp service executed by your Sherpa Climbing Guide. All our Full Board clients will have a personal Sherpa Climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route; Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions and oxygen and prepare high altitude food for his client; Assist his client on the route and ensure client safety and well being on the route through guiding and negotiating the route access priorities at pace and schedule determined by clients’ physical condition and preferred pace; Ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with clients’ safety and wellbeing as overriding priority.
High camp service for Full Board Service clients will consist of provision of all equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen, Summit system of Mask regulators in quantities specified in your climbing itinerary as per height of Mountain.
In the Base Camp: Satori Adventure provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services. The approach from Kathmandu to the Sama Gaun village takes roughly 10 days. From Sama Gaun you climb up to Manaslu Base camp. Throughout your approach and climbing period Satori provides a high quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize your summit opportunity.
We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, travelling logistics (including airfares), ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the trek to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.
In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked meals a day. Satori also ensures that hot and cold drinks as well as healthy snacks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious and durable 4 season personal tents for all of our clients. This comes with full board or base-camp services only. In the base camp we also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities as well as tent accommodation for our staff. In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including a satellite telephone, internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.
The trekking to the Manaslu base camp is absolutely breathtaking and takes you back in time when all Himalayan mountains were approached on foot. The trek starts at a low elevation of 800m in Arughta and rises gradually over the next 9-10 trekking days. It is a perfect way to acclimatize before base camp is reached and to take on climbing relatively quickly. From the village of Arughat situated in the low country the trek climbs through narrow gorges, rhododendron forest and local pastures to emerge into the higher alpine country with Tibetan influences.
The Advanced Base Camp 4700m is located at the lateral moraine of the Manaslu Glacier and it can be reached within a 9-10 day trek. Along the trekking you will have a great experience of nepalese culture and pristine native flora and fauna. During the trekking to Sama Gaun we provide camping accommodation, we can also adjust depending on group size and departure dates and provide tea house accommodations. The accommodation and meals are basic and limited compared to Everest or Annapurna trekking. The Manaslu approach is much more wild and primitive.
Manaslu has many interesting routes leading to the main summit and many of them were climbed and explored. The standard commercial route is along the original route of the 1956 Japanese expedition up the Northeast face.
The climb is straightforward and only slightly more technical then Cho Oyu or Shishapangma, however with a low base camp it is a long climb and with relatively high objective avalanche risk.
Traditionally there are 3 camps above base camp: C1 (5,500m), C2 (6,300m) and C3 (7,300m). Some expeditions establish an intermediate camp between C2 and C3 at 6,700m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow steps and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Manaslu has been climbed Alpine style but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.
When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and prepare for a proper acclimatization period. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1. Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp.
Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two, ferry gear, equipment and food to camp 2. We will then provide a similar acclimatization to camp 2 that we did on camp 1. If required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one. During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp, supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.
After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit. At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00zulu and begin the summit push.
If for any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incident) we have to return to base camp before the summit push, but still we have a climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide one more opportunity. However, more than 98% of people either have a successful summit bid or give up the first try.
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions.This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.
To ensure the safeties of our climbers, we always try to use professional weather forecast services. We receive constant updates during our summit push, camp one, two and three acclimatization periods. Exact and updated weather reports are a major factor for a successful summit opportunity. Mountaineering expeditions are a serious undertaking and climbers need to be aware that there are certain risks that are out of the control of Satori Adventures. We prefer to describe our Manaslu expedition as professionally managed rather than guided.
Our expedition leaders always have a satellite phone for communication. We always pass the upcoming weather forecast by phone call and text. However now a days there is a local CDMA phone connection at Manaslu Base camp and around Sama Gaun village.
We provide a portable altitude chambers (Gamow Box), medical oxygen, and high altitude related medical equipment at base camp and the high camps. We also supply a stretcher above base camp in case of serious injury and the higher camps will also have medical kits. We also ask all climbers to carry individual micro high altitude medical kits above base camp. All climbing members and climbing Sherpa guide are required to wear a personal avalanche beacon above base camp. Finally, we always request all of our climbers to make sure that they have medical and travel insurance which will cover a helicopter evacuation in case of serious sickness or injury on the mountain.
1950: H.W. Tilman, made his famous reconnaissance of Manaslu after his unsuccessful attempt on Annapurna 4. He stated he believed there was a potential route to the Summit of Manaslu via the northeast.
1952: A Japanese reconnaissance party reached 5275 meter on the east side of the mountain.
1953: The first attempt to Summit Manaslu was made by a Japanese team made a summit push reaching 7750 meter before turning back.
1954: Yaichi Hotta planned to lead a 14 member Japanese team on the Second Summit attempt of Manaslu, again via the Northeast but villagers in the area refused to let them enter the area, therefore no attempt was made.
1956: A Japanese team led by Yuko Maki made the first ascent of Manaslu via the North. This 12 member team established camp 6 at 7800 meter and on May 9th. Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa aka Galalzen Norbu reached the Summit. On May 11th, Kiichiro Kato and Minoru Higeta reached the Summit via the same route.
1971: Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, part of a 11 man team from Japan, reached the Summit on May 17th via the NW spur. The Japanese had all the ascents of Manaslu at this point.1971: Kim Ho-Sup led a Korean expedition to Manaslu to attempt via the Northeast. Kim Ki-Sup died when he fell on May 4th, 1971.
1972: The Austrian expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz made the first ascent via the SW face. On April 25th, Reinhold Messner, reached the Summit, Franc Jaeger and Andy Schrick disappeared on the Summit Plateau on the same day in a horrible storm. 1972: The Koreans returned with a 12 members expedition led by Kim Jung-Sup via the Northeast Face route. On April 10th 1972, an avalanche killed 16 climbers including 10 Sherpas climbers, the Korean expedition leader and Kazunari Yasuhisa from Japan.
1974: The Japanese women team led by Kyoko Sato attempted via the East ridge. Unable to summit via the East ridge, Naoko Nakaseko, Masako Uchida Mieko Mori and Jambu Sherpa reached the Summit on May 4th via the Northeast route. These were the first women to Summit Manaslu. Sadly, Sadako Suzuki fell and died on the 5th of May between camp 4 and 5.
1984: On January 14, Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski of a Polish expedition made the first winter ascent via the normal route
1986: On November 10, Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer reached the summit via a new route, in Alpine style, with no supplementary oxygen
2001: On May 22, Ukraine Himalaya 2001 Expedition comprising Serguiy Kovalov, Vadim Leontiev and Vladislav Terzyul successfully summited Manaslu via the challenging south-east face; all climbed without oxygen support.
Satori Adventures was an organizer of my first expedition on a mountain of 8000 meters and I was more satisfied than I expected. Rishi and was very professional and he was a great help in the organization. He answered clearly and quickly to all my questions throughout the preceding month of the expedition. Once visited Nepal, he was very dedicated to ensure the smooth running and success of our expedition.
As expedition leader, Rishi supported me in all of the procedures for obtaining the permit ascension allowed by the Ministry of Tourism.
Regarding the team, all were sympatiques, dedicated and highly professional (Office staffs,Climbing Sherpa,Cook.). Mingma, the Sirdar of the expedition was exceptional for its expertise in mountain and its ability to manage logistics.
Regarding the food, we ate very well during the 35 days of the expedition, which was great for the morale of the whole team. No one in the team has been sick because of food even during the trek which is very important in the success of an expedition of this kind.
In fact, all the elements in place by Satori Adventures contributed to the success of our expedition. All team members have reached the summit. I am very pleased with my experience with Satori Adventures and I solicit again to organize a trekking expedition when I go back to Nepal, for sure!
"Himalaya Mountains are the treasure of whole World!
Satori Adventures is not only a service provided, one of the best responsible adventures company we found in The Himalayas. We had already explored Manaslu, Annapurna, Everest, Makalu, Kanchejunga, Upper Mustang, and Upper Dolpo through these excellent operators. Our team was lucky to see the Highest Mountain of Planet, and the beauty of Nature has made us fall in love to this place. There were no doubts that we will try to come back again and again!
You people can imagine that how we choose this company again and again. We use Satori Adventures service again and again Because Mr. Rishi and his team always welcome us with open heart. We found that they welcome as a guest and good bye t use as a friendship.
Till now I have great result! 900 km of walking 6 times above 5000m, and around 1TB of photos which will going to be the first ever Virtual Tour about this Wonderful places. So IVV.NAMe team highly recommend that Satori Adveentures may become Your reliable Partner in any challenging trips that You would like to go in Nepal !
The trekking part and the expedition part was very well organised. The logistical was efficiency, the food very well and all the support team very professionals, competents and sympathics. Rishi, the owner of the compagny is very disponible, respond to all my questions before expedition, manage very well all the logistical and adminstrative tasks a the ministry, and was very present for us when we need.
From my very first trip to Nepal in 2013, I was so lucky to met Rishi and his team. Always friendly and very helpful in any situation. Climbing 8000 peaks, you need a very special support and excellent organisation. All this I got from Satori Adventures. Personally from Rishi , Minmatemba Sherpa and many others from this perfect team.
And as a result - successful climb of Manaslu this fall. Can not wait to be back next spring.
I strongly recommend to join this company to visit Nepal with any kind of adventure. You will feel like you are with old time friends.