Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatized to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 meters near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Everest considers it more comfortable than Climb Ama Dablam Expedition to guide under Satori Adventures' professional guidance.
Ama Dablam is the third most mainstream Himalayan top for allowed endeavors. The most famous course by a wide margin is the first ascent route along the Southwest Ridge. The climbing is typical with three camps along with ridge, the base three just below the hanging glacier's right, the Dablam, so that any ice that calves off the glacier goes away from the camp. A climbing license and a contact official are required while endeavoring to Climb Ama Dablam Expedition. You need to have a strong base of rock and ice climbing experience to climb this mountain. Most of Ama Dablam's route fixed, so climbers will need to be competent at ascending and descending fixed ropes and passing anchors. One pitch on the way is just about dead vertical, so practice climbing a vertical fixed rope before the campaign.
Similarly, as with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May in the spring and September-October-November in the fall season. It is well known to consolidate the Ama Dablam endeavor with a journey to Everest Base Camp or a rising of Island Peak. One of these two alternatives fills in as a delightful way to acclimatize for the climb. Trekking to Everest Base camp is a lovely way to pay homage to Everest, the King of the Himalayas, and experience the classic Everest view from Kallapather. Combining the Ama Dablam endeavor with an Island Peak climb offers a unique perspective on Everest from the highest point, which in itself advantageous self-denyingly and though a comfortable climbing experience.
The standard climbing course is utilizing the Southwest edge with average plans of 3 high camps: Camp one (5600m), Camp two (5900m), and Camp three (6200m) with a Base Camp at 4500m. Camp three lies on the ridge's shoulder just underneath and to one side of the last steep snow move to the culmination. A few years a center 2.7 comes up, concealed on a restricted corner on the southwest edge between camps 2 and 3. Most climbers highest point from base two and do not establish a center three.
Ama Dablam South-west course Camps:
Ama Dablam headquarters is one of the most significant grass headquarters situated in Nepal. It is uncommon to see such an accommodating landscape at the tallness of 4600m. Climbers will play volleyball and soccer at offices to keep warm and appreciate the excellent site. Base camp will set up here for right around 45 days in both the spring and autumn seasons. In the center, you will have great views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde. Ama Dablam's camp is by and large radiant because of its area; the sun is out right on time and stays late into the day. There are around 7-10 climbing groups each spring and fall season. It gives these high offices to climbers on the proper occasions, and we mastermind climbing licenses in light of your period. Our aides and staff are consistently preparing to build up various takeoff dates, as mentioned by climbers.
The move from Ama Dablam base to camp one is simply a traveling trail with just a short part of easygoing stone scrambling that is 100m long. Its closes by center one at a slope of 60º. Along the way, you will run over huge rocks and climb a simple fourth class piece with no fixed rope set up. You will immediately discover that there are very few spots to put a tent on Ama Dablam Southwest edge. So there is some coordination and sharing required among climbers. Roughly there is only space for 6-7, two-person tents and 6-7 single tents.
Transfer from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most specialized segment on the course. You start the day by scrambling and moving along a simple fourth class level stone edge around a few apexes and gendarmes, acquiring just 300 meters/1000 vertical feet. The openness is enormous, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the bank. The climbing is delightful with an excellent quality rock. Toward the level edge's finish, you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters, considered French fourth class, British Severe, North American YDS 5.5. Over the Yellow Tower, you will show up at Camp 2 on little edges. You will feel like a genuine large mountain high camp, with high openness on all sides. Be cautious when you go to the restroom.
Climb from camp two to camp three shifts over to mixed of ice and snow terrain. This section also has fixed ropes along with the whole distance. You will have great perspectives on Ama Dablam headquarters. The Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is presently an ideal opportunity to cross the scandalous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters/20,300 feet. They are gazing toward center 3 (6300 meters/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Some solid climbers push for the highest point from camp two. Be that as it may, Satori Adventures will consistently fix base three before the meeting. Advise that this segment of the mountain is in great danger for torrential slides. So diminishing the time spent at this camp or bypassing it is essential. For customers, not inclination sufficiently able to push from base 2, we usually spend 6 hours here before starting the culmination push. The course from the yellow pinnacle to camp three is practically 55º of slop almost the entire way.
To highest point from camp three and return down to camp two takes most climbers around 10 hours. The highest point day on Ama Dablam is an uncommon one. Two simple pitches of emotional yet intense snow-ice (40º+) climbed to the Dablam side. When you are close to the Dablam, you arrive at a fluted day off/field (30-50º) that drives you to one of the world's best culminations. You will reimburse with the best seat in the house to see the Khumbu, the focal point of high elevation climbing. You are staggering all encompassing perspectives on the Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma, and Makalu.
Highest access: 6,812m (22,334ft)
First Ascent: 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill & Wally Romanes(NZ), Barry Bishop(USA) & Mike Ward(UK)
Duration: 33 days (typically) Days
Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group.
Co-ordinates: 27°51'42'' N, 86°51'40'' E
Location: Nepal/Everest Region
Country: Nepal
Airport: Kathmandu
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: mixed Alpine AD
Accommodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L,D in during trekking and climbing
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L,D in during trekking and climbing
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Flight
Best season: spring: April-May and autumn: September-October
Major Activity: trekking/climbing
Include Activity: Scenic flight to Lukla
Culture: Sherpa and Tamang
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Southwest and northeast
Himalayan sights: Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Kongde
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Solo Ascent by Martin Boysen (UK); Tom Frost, David Breashears, Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Peter Pilafian, Jonathan Wright (all USA), and Lhakpa Dorje (Nepal) reached the summit on 22 April in blizzard conditions, as part of a well-financed climb-and-film expedition. Doug Robertson and John Wasson (both USA) reached the summit the next day.
1979 Lowe Route on the South Face (VI AI4 M5 1200m), Fist Ascent Solo by Jeff Lowe, 30 April 1979.[7]
1979 North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1600m) by a large French expedition led by Louis Audoubert placed 14 Frenchmen and 4 Nepalese Sherpa in three groups on the summit over three days, 21-23 Oct 1979
1981 Northeast Spur to North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1500m) by Tim McCartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall, and Andrew Henderson (AUS).1983 East Ridge (VI 80deg 1500m) by Alain Hubert (Belgium) and Andre Georges (Switzerland)
1985 North Ridge Austro-German alpine-style ascent by Friedl Huber, Max Berger, Louis Badengruber, Colin Molines and Roman Dirnbok
1985 Ariaki-Sakashita on the west face (VI 5.7 65deg 1400m) by Masayuki Ariaki and Naoe Sakashita (both JP)
1985 Northeast Face (VI mixed 90deg 1400m) winter ascent by Michael Kennedy and Carlos Buhler (both USA)
1996 Stane Belak Šrauf Memorial Route on the northwest face (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ 1650m) by Vanja Furlan and Tomaž Humar (both from Slovenia), which earned them the 1996 Piolet d'Or
I engaged Satori Adventures for my Nepal trip during Oct/Nov. I'm very satisfied with their services especially during our 16-days trek to Mount Everest Base Camp via Gokyo & Cho-la pass. It is a memorable experience for me. Rishi had been patient & professional in helping us with city tour at Kathmandu, Pokhara, Lumbini & Chitwan; ensuring that everything runs smoothly.
I'm impressed by the services provided during the trekking. The trekking guide & the porter had been most helpful and supportive as well during this period. I strongly recommend Satori Adventures for trekking and Nepal tour.
Thank you very much for all the arrangements, making my trip to Nepal a memorable one!
Visited October 2014
I would like to highly recommend Satori Adventures to anyone who wants to book high Himalayan expedition. I had booked Ama Dablam expedition and be assured of fantastic service, good price and great possibility to reach you goal. I had summated Cho Oyu expedition with Satori arrangements and have recently returned from Ama Dablam spring expedition. Unfortunately, natural disaster, a terrible earthquake and bad weather, did not allow us to complete expedition successfully, but even in that situation Rishi Bhandari managed organized expedition according itinerary, including summiting Island Peak, comfortable staying in Ama Dalam base camp and camp I. I have no complaints only great pleasure staying with team friends. All the support staff was amazing, friendly, helpful, knowledgeable and professional. Ngima Tamang, the kitchen chef, worked hard to give us great variety so the food never became boring, Bibek, the sirdar, fantastical guy, always did his best, tries to solve all problems and make our expedition safe and successful as possible. I‘m sure, Nepal is safe and waiting for you as never, so make a contact with Rishi, managing director of the company. I am sure that he will take care of you, making your dreams real. Rishi works hard and is very committed to making everyone's holiday the best.
We participated in a mountaineering expedition to mt. Ama Dablam arranged by Satori Adventures. The trip started with completing the Everest Basecamp trek to Gorakshep village, and hiking up Kala Patthar. As the second part of the trip we set to climb Ama Dablam. We got a successful summit from our team, but I had to turn around 300 meters before the summit.
Satori arranged all of the logistics of the trip excellently. As always, some occasional adjustments to the trekking plan had to be made, and our guides handled the arrangements promptly. We had also some mild cases of illness, but the Satori staff rearranged the schedule to let us recover.
The Ama Dablam Base Camp was the central stage in the mountaineering part of our trip. The basecamp was very comfortable, featuring a dining tent, a cooking tent, and a shower tent. Unlimited tea and snacks was available in the dining tent at all times. The three daily meals were prepared by a very skilled cook, and the menu was varying from chiken on a sizzling plate to local momos. Almost new three-person tents were used for accommodation.
We had ordered a full service package, so similar three-person tents were ready set up for us in the high camps. The Sherpa guides carried up the food to the high camps, and even a few of our personal items. In the high camps the Sherpas supplied us with boiled water and were otherwise also very helpful. We planned the summit push with our sherpas, who set a personalized summit schedule for our group.
Many of the Sherpa guides knew English pretty well, and some of them even told that they were taking English courses during their free months.
All in all, Satori Adventures had very convincing logistics for our expedition. The basecamp was very comfortable, and it was obvious that they put attention to detail when managing the expedition. Even while the Sherpas guide you along the entire route, I would still recommend that one knows the basic mountaineering techniques when going on an expedition like this.
Satori Adventures organise me and my friends Ama Dablam expedition in autumn 2016. We had good service from planning to end of the expedition and in addition Rishi reacted immediately to our inqueries while at the mountains. Sherpa team was young in general but very experienced. Camp service in basecamp and higher camps were exceptional and we had the best high altitude cook in our basecamp! Really enjoy my time with Satori Adventures and will highly recommend their trekking and expedition services.
We participated in a mountaineering expedition to mt. Ama Dablam arranged by Satori Adventures. The trip started with completing the Everest Basecamp trek to Gorakshep village, and hiking up Kala Patthar. As the second part of the trip we set to climb Ama Dablam. We got a successful summit from our team, but I had to turn around 300 meters before the summit.
Satori arranged all of the logistics of the trip excellently. As always, some occasional adjustments to the trekking plan had to be made, and our guides handled the arrangements promptly. We had also some mild cases of illness, but the Satori staff rearranged the schedule to let us recover.
The Ama Dablam Base Camp was the central stage in the mountaineering part of our trip. The basecamp was very comfortable, featuring a dining tent, a cooking tent, and a shower tent. Unlimited tea and snacks was available in the dining tent at all times. The three daily meals were prepared by a very skilled cook, and the menu was varying from chiken on a sizzling plate to local momos. Almost new three-person tents were used for accommodation.
We had ordered a full service package, so similar three-person tents were ready set up for us in the high camps. The Sherpa guides carried up the food to the high camps, and even a few of our personal items. In the high camps the Sherpas supplied us with boiled water and were otherwise also very helpful. We planned the summit push with our sherpas, who set a personalized summit schedule for our group.
Many of the Sherpa guides knew English pretty well, and some of them even told that they were taking English courses during their free months.
All in all, Satori Adventures had very convincing logistics for our expedition. The basecamp was very comfortable, and it was obvious that they put attention to detail when managing the expedition. Even while the Sherpas guide you along the entire route, I would still recommend that one knows the basic mountaineering techniques when going on an expedition like this.
We took a month long expedition to Nepal with my climbing partners. Main goal was climbing the majestic Ama Dablam. Rishi and the entire crew of the Satori adventure worked hard to make sure everything was going through smoothly from beginning to end; this entailed everything from permits, airport pick ups to treks, base camp services, climbs. I highly recommend their services and will for sure go back to the Himalayas!
Very good arrangement and facilities. The food options were superb. I will definitely book more expeditions with Satori.
I was very happy with my trip with Satori Adventures. They went out of their way to help with anything we needed, and were very professional and organized with planning and logistics.
I was extremely happy with our head climbing sherpa Phurba who was always happy and flexible on the itinery, not to mention his strength and experience on the mountain.
Everything ran smoothly and i would absolutely recommend Satori to anyone heading to Nepal.
Source: Tripadvisor
Very good arrangement and facilities. The food options were superb. I will definitely book more expeditions with Satori.
Source: Tripadvisor