Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at (8,201 meters/26,906 feet). Cho Oyu Expedition is one of the easiest of the 8,000 meter peaks due to its straight forward approach and lack of objective dangers. Cho Oyu means "Goddess of Turquoise," as its stark shadows appear this color in the light of the setting sun when viewed from Tibet. Cho Oyu is located about 30 kilometers west of Mt Everest and straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet. Mount Cho-Oyu was first climbed on October 19, 1954, by Austrian Joseph Joechler, Herbert Tichy, Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal).
There are two climbing routes, one from the south (Nepal side) and another from the north, the west ridge, commonly referred to as the regular route. The mountain is semi-technical with short ice cliffs, a rock band, and several crevasses. We provide both full board and base camp logistic services on Cho Oyu. We recommend using the top board services for safety, a secure mountaineering experience, and your best opportunity to reach the summit. However, some experienced climbers may opt for climbing without support above base camp from a guide or Sherpa.
The team will assemble in Kathmandu and gather any last-minute items. Upon arriving in Kathmandu, it will take two working days to obtain your Chinese Visa and climbing permit, but we will submit and take care of the details for you. The team will then travel overland via the Friendship Highway to Tibet. The journey takes you across the Tibetan Plateau, where you stop in Tingri and Nyalam along the way to acclimatize, before reaching the Chinese Base Camp. From the Cho-Oyu Chinese base camp, you will trek to middle camp for an overnight stay and the next day make the journey to Cho-Oyu Base Camp, which sits below the North West face of the mountain.
The route above advanced base camp consists mainly of low-angled snow slopes up to 35° with one short but very steep section to bypass a Sérac barrier at 6,475 meters. Most of the climbers use two or three camps on the mountain before reaching the summit. Camp 1 lies at 6,400m, Camp 2 around 7,100, and the highest camp at 7,450m. Most of the climbers try to summit push from camp two and return to camp two. However, we like to make this decision based upon the clients' health and fitness during the summit push. We are always flexible, and the plan might change due to weather, wellness, illness, or other unseen events. Generally, the team will spend 22-23 days committed to the summit objective, with multiple equipment and supply carries, and acclimatization climbs to camp 1, 2 and 3, before attempting the summit.
Satori Adventures provides top quality service to ensure safety, comfort, and support to maximize each client's chances of a successful summit. For us, the service quality means we always use private transportation from Kathmandu to base camp in a comfortable Jeep, and we only use experienced and trained climbing guides, an expedition cook, and professional base camp staff. Meals are freshly cooked, with snacks and drinks available 24 hours in your dining room. We only use the highest quality personal tents, a spacious and comfortable dining tent with functional and comfortable furniture, and an efficient heater, showers, solar panel for charging and lighting are all part of our advanced base camp facilities.
Our Cho-Oyu climbing guides are experienced and qualified. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical western-style climbing and English, customer service, and Wilderness First Aid. Most of our guides are skillful via TAAN, NMA, and NATHM. They have many years of experience on prominent peaks. They are highly skilled in Nepal mountaineering, and all hold a Nepal Government License, Mountaineering Association Accreditation, and Summit Certificates of Nepal Himalayan peaks. They have thorough technical training and practical experience in rock climbing techniques, ice and snow techniques, and logistic knowledge and expertise to set up and operate high altitude camps, experience in high altitude camping, techniques with fixed rope climbing, belay techniques, use of any mountaineering gear, service of oxygen, high altitude food, avalanche, and high mountain rescue techniques.
Cho-Oyu Advance base camp located below the North West face route at an elevation of 5,700m/18,700 feet is very comfortable and scenic. Spectacular glaciers and peaks surround this location with a full frontal view of the entire Cho Oyu route from the tent. The climbing route to the summit is approximately 12 km long with an elevation gain of 2,501m. You will spend about 22 days here. Cho-Oyu's advanced base camp is generally sunny due to its location, with the sun being out early and staying late in the day. There are approximately 7-15 climbing teams each spring and autumn season.
From advanced base camp to camp will take most people 4-6 hours. This trip starts out walking along the Gyabrag Glacier before moving to a steep scree slope that takes you to the shoulder of a broad snowfield and camp I. While command, I am set in a generally safe location. There are always risks of an avalanche on any big mountain, and proper safety precautions and tent set-up are essential.
Camp two is located at 7,100m/23,294 feet on a broad snow face just above a prominent 25-meter high ice cliff. To make climbing the ice cliff safer, we will fix a line up the ridge, making this part of the trip safer and more enjoyable. I will take most climbers 5 -7 hours on mostly 35-38 degree snow slopes from the base to camp II.
Camp III is located at (7,500m), which leaves the climbers with a 700-meter push for the summit day. Camp II is located just below the yellow band, a rock cliff that must negotiate to reach the summit and is cover in snow. The climbing route is a short but steep snow slope above the yellow band, but very strenuous. Since we will only spend a short amount of time at camp III, this camp does not contain many amenities. Around 45% of climbers will utilize bottled oxygen above base III. Most climbers will leave camp III for the summit around 0100 hours.
Upon leaving camp III, it will take you 7-9 hours of hard work to reach the summit of Cho Oyu. Most climbers will reach the summit between 0700 and 1000 hours if the weather is stable and the conditions are right. After crossing the yellow band, which is not difficult at sea level but can be challenging at 7,800 meters, the summit day's remainder is a long steep snow slope that requires climbers to dig deep and keep focused.
Highest access: 8,201m (26,906ft)
First Ascent: Austrian Joseph Joechler, Herbert Tichy (Austria), Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal), October 19, 1954
Duration: 44 (typically) Days
Group Size: 01-10person per Group
Co-ordinates: 28°05'37''N, 86°39'43''E
Location: Nepal/Tibet border, 30km west of Everest
Country: Tibet, China
Airport: Kathmandu
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Moderate Climb (PD++)
Accommodation: Three star to five stars as request
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus
Best season: Late spring and autumn
Major Activity: trekking/climbing
Include Activity: Zhangbu, Naylam and Tingri tour
Culture: Tibeten and Sherpa
Mode of Travel: Hotel/Guest house on route, camping during Climbing period
Climbing route: North-west Ridge
Himalayan sights: Friendship peak, Everest, Lhotse, Shishapangma
The Great Trigonometric Survey of India, part of the British Survey of India which began in 1803, made distance measurements of many high Himalayan peaks in the 1850s including those in the Mount Everest region. Cho Oyu, not originally assigned an identification number, was later named T45 and then MI since it appeared to be a minor peak.
1921 First Exploration of Cho OyuLieutenant Colonel Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1963) led a British Everest reconnaissance expedition that explored the Cho Oyu area. The group included George Leigh Mallory, who was on his first trip to the Mount Everest region. They explored the area for two months and made the first photographs of Cho Oyu from Nangpa La, a high pass between Nepal and Tibet.
A British expedition led by Eric Shipton made a serious attempt to climb Cho Oyu. Shipton's goals for the ascent, besides the summit, were "to test the ability of several mountaineers to climb to great heights;" to find a group of climbers able to attempt Mount Everest in 1953; to test oxygen gear, clothing, and equipment; and to study the physiology of high-altitude climbing. Unfortunately, the Chinese closed the Tibetan side of the mountain and the best feasible route. The climbers, including Edmund Hillary, attempted the Southwest Ridge but failed so they tried the illegal northwest side of the peak alpine style and reached 22,400 feet before defeat. Hillary had "felt almost a sense of shame that we'd allowed ourselves to admit defeat so readily."
Cho Oyu was successfully climbed in the post-monsoon season of 1954 via the Northwest ridge. At 3:00 p.m. on October 19, Austrian climbers Joseph Jöchler and Herbert Tichy and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama who led the ice cliff that Shipton had described as "obviously impassible." (AAJ 29 1955, p. 178) stepped onto the summit of Cho Oyo after climbing almost 4,000 feet in ten hours from Camp IV. Both Austrians were suffering from severe frostbite, while Pasang, having hiked over 30 miles and gained 10,000 feet to Camp II after going down for supplies, wept tears of joy, which froze on his cheeks, as he unfurled the flags of Nepal, Austria, and India on his ice axe.This route has remained as the standard climbing route for commercial expeditions since.
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The great alpinist Reinhold Messner climbed Cho Oyu on his fourth attempt with Hans Kammerlander and Michael Dacher. The trio climbed it alpine style and without Sherpas in four days up the southwest flank for Cho Oyu's fourth overall ascent. On the last day, they climbed over 3,000 feet of elevation to the summit. Messner later become the first climber to successfully ascend all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks
On February 12 two Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka and Maciej pawlikowski reached the summit followed by two other Polish climbers Andrzj Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka
On May 13 Carlos Carsolino got the summit implementing a world record speed ascent from base camp, reached in 18 hours and 45 minutes. First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi.
On October 2, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
I have climbed successfully Cho-Oyu and Shishapangma Expedition with Satori Service. The service was Excellent, professioanl organization, very helpful staff and very quick in answers by Rishi Bhandari. We have got competitive price. In the base camp service is excellent and the staff work hard. Satori Sirdar and expedition leader Mr Mingma Temba Sherpa Willingness to best solve each problem.
Rishi is a very good person, helpful and friendly.
Surely we'll organize again other expeditions together.
Satori Agency VERY RECOMMENDED FOR ANY CLIMBERS!!!
I have used Satori Adventures in Kathmandu several times and have found them to be professional, organized, provide excellent service and that they really go above and beyond to ensure your expedition is trip is a life changing experience.
Rishi and his company Satori provide very good services and support for us. They are very reliable and they took care of all our needs. Thanks again for all your support ! Adrian
First climbers of Cho Oyu were Austrians. Not Australians. Austria in Europe. Also Herbert Tichy was from Austria (Vienna), not from Italy. Best regards, Martina from Austria