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Climbing Questions/Answers

Q. Who can climb an 8000m mountain & who can obtain a climbing permit?

There is only one restriction for obtaining permits for 8000m peaks, the government of Nepal does not allow climbing permits to be issued to a climber who is below the age of 16. Beyond that restriction any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain in the Himalaya. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks require that the client has previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks, as well as general skills and knowledge with ice/rock climbing, experience and knowledge of how to ascend/descend on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axes and crampons. Attempting these peaks also requires a very high level of physical fitness and good health. Although we do not have any specific restrictions in place about our client’s physical fitness level, it is in your best interest to take the matter of your physical fitness very seriously. This puts your group members, Sherpa and yourself in a safer situation.

For those seeking the experience of climbing an 8000m peak, Nepal should be at the top of your list of countries to visit. With the rich variety of flora and fauna, the everlasting smiles of the rural Nepalese, the hospitality of the village communities, the favorable climatic and geographical conditions, the cultural and linguistic diversity and the rich cultural spirit which represents a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism Nepal is the adventure capital of the world. With 1400 trekking peaks above 6000m and 8 of the 14 8000m peaks in the world it is fair to say that your mountaineering ambitions can be taken to a new level here in Nepal. Will never start and complete without having Himalayan peak experience.

It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.

It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.

Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking. The steep snow climbing and ice-climbing that can be required entices craftsman to test, hone and develop their skills. If you are considering climbing an 8000m peak there are several questions that you need to ask yourself and be truthful about your findings. Am I physically fit enough? Am i technically capable of handling the expected terrain? Am I mentally capable of the hardship associated with high altitude expeditions? Satori recommends that if your considering to climb Mt. Everest that you have a high level of physical endurance and previous experience on 6000m or 7000m peaks. We would also like to see that you have climbed an 8000m peak prior to attempting Mt. Everest. For this we recommend: Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and Manaslu. The Himalaya demands truth, be truthful to yourself, your climbing partners and the agency your working with because at some point your life will be held by someone else’s awareness and skill.

An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 14 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. . Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Satori Adventure operates 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons to all of these 8 peaks in Nepal. Climbing periods for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 40 to 65 days, this time includes your arrival and departure from Kathmandu. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal, The Tibet Mountaineering Association in Tibet and Ministry of Tourism in Pakistan.

Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding. Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides have many years of experience and are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM. They are highly skilled in all aspects of mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License, Mountaineering Association Accreditation and Summit Certificates for Nepal Himalayan peaks. All of these government licenses are displayed in our office.

To climb an 8000m peak your physical fitness is very important, excellent physical fitness is required. Not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for your overall safety and enjoyment Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.

Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow any persons under the age of 18 years old to climb an 8,000 meter peak. This was a recent change in Nepal but the Tibet mountaineering association had limited access due to age for 75 years in the Everest north region.

On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/guest houses (aka teahouses) the meals will be provided by these lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. In these instances meals will be prepared on the route with canister stoves or natural fires. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals. Above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa. Above base camp we always supply high altitude food that meets our clients requirements.

Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. We recommend upon arriving picking up a CDMA pre paid card and insert that into your mobile device. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some other and more costly options include the use of a Satellite phone. We like to use Delorme. We will always supply a phone that is available upon the clients request during trekking and mountaineering expeditions.

A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.

Yes. A Satori Adventure representative will be waiting for you at the airport with your placard. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you as per the schedule.

Yes. All trekkers and climbers are required to purchase adequate travel insurance, which includes a helicopter emergency evacuation plan. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of an evacuation during an expedition. Without having travel insurance during your trek or climb you will be financially responsible for all the costs of your evacuation and treatment. These bills can be tens of thousands of dollars.

You need to obtain your travel insurance policy before you depart your home. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter transport to a medical facility. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates. Before purchasing a package make sure that the policy covers helicopter evacuation from remote mountain locations, make sure that they will pick you up in a fully equipment medical transport helicopter. Also, be aware of the specifications of what the agency classify’s an emergency to be. For instance, if you brake your toe chances are they are not sending the helicopter for you. Most companies say that their grounds for picking up clients is determined by whether or not the client would be admitted into the hospital from the illness they have. We recommend the company Global Rescue. Do some research because not all insurance companies respond to emergency situations in a timely manner.

Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of the 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation. Normally it takes 40-65 days depending on the mountain’s height and its vicinity to a major city.

At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties like Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable by trekking at an appropriate pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. AMS is the beginning stages of any and all other mountain related illness, the symptoms include headache, lethargic, nausea and vomiting and other general flu like symptoms. AMS can further develop into Cerebral Adema which is a serious illness caused by swelling of the brain. Pulmonary Edema is a fluid build up in the lungs and is also very serious. Both Cerebral Adema and Pulmonary Adema are can lead to death. Sunburn can also be a serious issue at altitude. The use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important to protect against UV rays. Snow blindness is also a serious condition and is caused by extended exposure to the sun’s rays throughout the day. This mainly occurs in glaciated terrain. For this we recommend sunglasses that have category 4 lenses.

On our website please click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. If you have any questions, please contact Satori Adventures at [email protected]

Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment including food, climbing/personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal. More specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.

There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.

We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and is also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetables as much as possible and our cooks have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate calories. Altitude affects your desire to eat greatly. Different flavors of tea, coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours a day.

In the high camps we utilize freeze dried packaged foods from the USA or UK. They offer a variety of high quality flavors and are easy to prepare at altitude. Your personal climbing Sherpa will melt sufficient ice for hot water, tee, coffee and a variety of juices. At camp one, it may be possible to ferry fresh food from base camp.

The Advance Base Camp is always located at a glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are generally located in a safe location, however camp 1 has to be chosen wisely due to some areas are prone to heavy snow accumulation. Camp 3 is located below the yellow band on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and this is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistical services, we understand the requirements of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.

All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are generally easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and generally require more time. Since spring 2015 Nepal Immigration has introduced a computerized automated visa system making the arrival immigration process fast and convenient. For Tibet expeditions you will need a two week single entry visa on arrival and a two week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000 meter Himalayan expeditions will be more than 40 days, so we advise that you obtain a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$ 100.00. If you are going to leave Nepal within 24 hours you may request free transit visa.

Yes, you are required to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect the visa and climbing permit at the same time. You will not need to obtain a Chinese visa, a main land Chinese visa does not work in Tibet.

We use a jeep or mini bus to travel to Kodari. Upon crossing the Tibet border the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and provide hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri. The TMA will also provide the same services on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border after the climbing period. After acclimating for two days at the Chinese base camp, we will trek for two days to reach advanced base camp.

Yes. The climbing permit is included in the package cost and Satori will organize the permit, visa and transport service. In China support will be provided by the CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association) from border to the base camp. CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.

In Kathmandu we provide you with your requested category of hotel accommodation and will send you to a quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transportation and accommodation services between the border and the base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA is very basic and due to Chinese policies we have no control or influence over these accommodations.

Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works well for 8,000 meter peaks. One sleeping bag is utilized and kept in base camp. This bag should be rated -20 to -25 C and the second bag used in the high camps should be rated -30 to -40 C. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri, but some clients prefer to use their -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges. Your bag should also be down, not synthetic.

Satori Adventures will provide a thick quality pad for use in base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for the higher camps. Foam pads generally work best, but some clients prefer air mattresses.

Please click on the climbing equipment list where you will find the recommended climbing gear list. If you need further information please contact us at [email protected]

We recommend purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark and Marmot. During an 8000m expedition we advice that you use One sport millet or La-sportiva climbing boots. Your personal gear is one of the major factors for a successful summit opportunity. Make sure to invest in high quality first hand equipment. You will also be required to have basic climbing gear such as a helmet, ice-axes, crampons, climbing and trekking boots alpine style harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 carabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prussic loops (2 long and two short). The info pack for your personal expedition will contain details.

There are several options for acclimation during your Cho Oyu expedition. Ascending a 6,000 meter peak prior to an 8,000 meter peak is always a good idea. Some of our clients take advantage of the climbs on Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will provide acclimatization to 6,000 meters, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp 2 on most 8,000 meter peaks. If you don't have the time or resources you can acclimatize during the trip from the border to base camp. Most of the 8,000 meter expeditions will have an acclimatization period where you will ascend and descend several times between from base camp to the higher camps.

Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude, thus it is vital you monitor your own health.  Generally higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

The risks during an 8,000 meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injury, or frostbite. Satori Adventures maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all of the above. Each team has an appropriately equipped and up-to-date first aid kit and trained staff to use this equipment. We require each group member have valid travel insurance, which allows for a medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite with more serious issues requiring emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet, therefore all rescues are by Jeep and manpower.
There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as snowfall, avalanches, landslides and potential earthquakes. We are fully aware of all of these risks and have developed quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions. This includes back-up communication devices to our office in Kathmandu that assists us with any emergency situation.
In case of road blockages during massive landslides or earthquakes we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa in Tibet and helicopter in Nepal. These evacuations are considered emergency evacuation due to a natural disaster, that means that the cost of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.

How do you prevent and treat AMS?

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness. It is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body and brain
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water. The test of proper hydration is the ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Take it easy or have a rest. Nap when you can. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m of ascension.
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.

Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask that you cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as: suggesting rest, hydrating more frequently, snacking, help you carry your day pack or change the pace. If this is not working your guide will suggest taking an extra day of rest or descending if necessary.

Your guide will carry some medications in the group first aid kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure that you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance that includes helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

Complete the booking form on the related trip on the booking page. Select the size of your group and required services and obtain our price for your group. Simply click on BOOK NOW/ INQUIRE FORM button and give us the required details. In order to secure your booking we require a 30% deposit for your trip. We will also require a scanned page of your passport, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your flight itinerary. An additional 30% of trip cost should be paid as a 2nd installment at least 15 days prior to leaving your country of residence. The balance should be paid in Kathmandu upon arrival.

For more details about booking process and down payments please visit below links.
http://www.satoriadventuresnepal.com

An expedition on Manaslu is a very serious physical and physiological undertaking with some technical aspects. Excellent physical condition is required. Many of our clients for the Manaslu expedition are cyclists, runners and fitness enthusiasts. Some of these clients ride 50 to 70 km bike rides, run marathons, or compete in triathlons. If clients are participating in these or similar fitness endeavors, the next step would be to ramp up your training for 3-4 months prior to the expedition. This should adequately prepare you for this kind of trip. This 3-4 months of training should consist of running three to four times weekly trying to get your 8km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 6 hours, which will mean that you can sustain the pace needed for this trip. To help prepare, you should incorporate outdoor step training or riding hills a minimum of twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more prepared you will be for the expedition. There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

Our expeditions are scheduled during spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon change period. This allows us to have a summit bid when the wind stops on most 8,000 meter peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction. The difference between spring and autumn expeditions is the change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to colder respectively.

Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest and Manaslu.

When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and preparation for proper acclimation. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1. Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp.

Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two and supply gear, equipment and food. We will then provide a similar acclimatization. If required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one. During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.

After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit. At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00 hours and begin the summit push.

If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return base camp before summit push, but still we have climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide once more opportunity. However, more than 98% people either success

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