Annapurna I (8091m/26,545ft.) is the 10th highest mountain globally and the eighth highest mountain in Nepal. Annapurna I is the lowest 8000m peak but is one of the most technical climbing peaks in the Himalayas. Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal climbed Annapurna Expedition on June 03rd, 1950. It was not until 1970. Annapurna Expedition was summited again from its Northwest Ridge. The peak's exact location can found at the coordinates of 28°35'45''N83°49'20''E. The Annapurna massif contains six major peaks, Annapurna I (8091m/26,545ft) Annapurna II(7937m/26,040ft) Annapurna III(7555m/24,786ft) Annapurna IV (7525m/24,688ft) Gangapurna (7455m/24,457ft) Annapurna South (7219m/23,684ft). Climbing Annapurna Expedition is hard for untrained mountaineers, guides due to the snow slope.
Annapurna in Sanskrit is translated to "full of food" but is generally translate to "Goddess of the Harvests." In Hinduism, Annapurna is a goddess of fertility and agriculture and an avatar of Durga. The entire massif and surrounding areas preserved within the 7629 square kilometers (2,946 sq mi) Annapurna Conservation Area, the first conservation area in Nepal, remained the largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including the Annapurna Circuit.
Annapurna is one of the world's most technical mountains; for that reason, it has a lousy fatality to summit ratio. Climbing Annapurna is a severe adventure and one of the most difficult 8000m peaks in the world. But there is hope that a new route was used this year and will be the best and safest route to climb moving forward. The South Face of Annapurna is one of the largest and steepest faces in the world. The looks are fantastic in size and difficulty. The South Face is 3000 feet higher than the Southwest face of Mt. Everest. The South Face of Annapurna is relatively free of the terrible avalanche hazards that plague the standard routes on the North Face of the mountain. Despite the incredible difficulty, the South Face is a logical route to the summit of Mt. Annapurna.
Satori Adventure provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics, including airfares, ground transportation, porters, food along the trek, and other individual services required by clients. Satori advises clients to use a personal climbing Sherpa guide (which we will provide) to help you reach the summit. Your personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp I, camp II, and center III with food provisions, fuel, and oxygen and guide the client on summit day.
After arriving in Kathmandu, you will have a day of preparations and briefing for your climbing permit. Following that, you will be flying to Pokhara and then driving to Tatopani by jeep. From here, you will be trekking to Annapurna South base camp through wild jungles; along the way, you will pass through villages such as Lete and Miristi Khola. After having a few days rest and receive basic training from your Satori Climbing Sherpa guide, you will be starting your acclimatization period up to camp I, II, and III.
Base camp to camp II is a very technical section of the route. It consists of an unstable and broken glacier with dangling seracs that can come crashing down at any time. The climb does with three camps. It takes 2 hrs to get from Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) to the bottom of the rise. The start of the route is a steep 70-degree section that requires 500m of fixed rope. Here is the objective hazard area of the falling seracs. From camp I to camp II the climbing is slightly less steep but is still tricky with great objective avalanche danger. This section requires roughly 1000m of fixed rope. Camp II's route to camp III requires switchback navigation on the snowfield between the broken glacier's seracs. The summit is on an exposed ridge and does not require fixed ropes, and it is doing as a free ascent.
Satori Adventures operates the Annapurna expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We usually run the journey from the regular route, which is the southwest ridge. However, we will operate the Annapurna expedition from the Southwest face and the Northwest Ridge. The approach starts south of Annapurna and takes you through Tatopani, Lete, and Miristi Khola. Annapurna Base camp will set up in a flat, grassy area that is shelter from avalanches. Satori Adventures' advanced base camp will set up for almost one month. On an 8000m, expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally, base camp becomes a home away from home on any long expedition. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different groups and the Annapurna massif's strategic viewing positions. Satori provides a personal tent that becomes your private retreat, a dining tent, a common area, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp, it will already be fully established, with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you upon your arrival will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Before your climbing period, you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This Nepalese tradition is not to miss, and it represents a safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5300m/17,388ft). In this section of the climb, you will encounter mixed terrain—the first section of the ridge rock and glacier. You will fix camp I at the middle of the glacier on a slope of 25º. A safe location and protects from avalanches. This section of the climb is a bit technical, and your climbing Sherpa guide will fix rope through this section. Some stronger climbers will skip this camp after and go right to camp II.
The climbing from camp I to camp II is an intermediate ice section with a few mixed climbing sections. Compared with other areas, the base I and camp II terrain is safer and more comfortable, but you still have to climb and cross the black rock wall before heading up the glacier. You encounter several steep blue ice sections at 45º, and these sections are roughly 50-60. There is also another 60m high rock wall to negotiate. This section is said to be the crux of the route. Camp 2 lies above the snowy terrace.
Camp II to camp III is the longest distance of 800m/2,655ft. Between camp II and camp III, Sherpas will fix 80% of the route. In this first section of climbing, you will be crossing a glacier from east to west, and you will then meet a 55º wall, which is almost 500m in length. Climbers have reported that this section is easier climbing but is still not to take lightly; your Sherpa will fix ropes on this section of the route. Be advised that there is exposure to cold and wind in this section. In autumn, there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section, making it feel hot. This section is a little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice, causing the section avalanche prone.
Climbing from camp III to camp IV feels like a short distance. Continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur, which will join a prominent couloir. Camp IV can set between 7100m-7200m in a panoramic rock cave. As all climbers are aware, the oxygen levels are deficient at this altitude, so it expects that any effort will feel arduous, no matter how minimal or trivial. You have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow and a giant wall at a 50-55º slope in this section. This section is a little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice, making the section avalanche prone. The Satori team will make an easy traverse to Camp IV at 7100m, which allows you to have a shorter summit day.
Summit day is the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00-12:00 pm. If all goes well, you will reach the summit between 7:00-10:00 am. Below the central panel is a false summit; the main point comes through an edge. It requires around 4 hours to re-visitation of camp IV from the peak also, an additional 2 hours to will camp II for a short-term stay. It requires a normal of 900m of fixed rope above camp IV and underneath the highest point. The reason we request almost 900m cord above camp III to the meeting. Most sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the actual meeting for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail, and make every effort to help the group reach the Annapurna summit, the 10th highest mountain in the world.
Highest access: 8,091m/ 26,545ft
First Ascent: Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal, June 3, 1950
Duration: 45 typically Days
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Co-ordinates: 28°35'45''N 83°49'20''E
Location: Nepal/Annapurna Region
Country: Nepal
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Challenging
Accommodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu & Pokhara and B, D, L during the trekking and Climbing
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus
Best season: Late spring and autumn
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Hot shower in natural hot spring
Culture: Gurung, Thakali, Magar
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Northwest Ridge and Southwest face
Himalayan sights: Gangapurna, Fishtail, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri
Annapurna I was the first 8,000m (26,200ft) peak to be summited. The French expedition was lead by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, (it included Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on 3 June 1950. This summit was the highest attained on Earth for three years, until the first successful ascent of Mount Everest. The first ascent has become one of the classic pieces of mountaineering literature to date.
The South face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston, members of a British expedition. The expedition was led by Chris Bonington and included an alpinist named Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling serac during the descent.
In 1978 the American womens Himalayan expedition, a team led by Arlene Blum became the first American team to climb Annapurna I. The first summit team which wascomposed of Vera Komarkova and Irene Miller and Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Ringjing reached the summit at 3:30 p.m. on October 15, 1978. The second summit team, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Vera Watson, died during this climb.
2011:On February 3, 1987 Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.
Well organized expedition - I have nothing to complain about;)
I spent time for acclimatisation in Khumbu where I climbed Lobuche East 6119m before I departed to Annapurna 8091m which I succesfully climbed - after the expedition we departed quickly by helicopter and arrived very fast in kathmandu. My requests where all completly taken care of - it was a very nice experince - I felt I can trust this Company!
I would like to highly recommend Satori Adventures to anyone who wants to book high mountain expedition including all 8000M peaks in Nepal, Tibet and Pakistan. I had used Satori adventure service for My Lhotse, Annapurna, Manaslu, Kanchanjungha, Cho-Oyu expeditions and I never need to see behind myself again.
There are few words to say about the service of Satori adventures in the way they work as much as they have worked hard in difficult condition. assured of fantastic service, good price and great possibility to reach you goal. I have no complaints only great pleasure staying with team friends. All the support staff were amazing, friendly, helpful, knowledgeable and professional Leader Guide. Mingma Temba and Mingma Tenji were really profession expedition leader, who have 10 and 12 times of Everest summit experience including other 8, 8000m mountain.
The kitchen chef, worked hard to give us great variety so the food never became boring, Bibek, the sirdar, fantastical guy, always did his best, try to solve all problems and make our expedition safe and successful as possible. I‘m sure, Nepal is safe and waiting for you as never, so make a contact with Rishi, managing director of Satori Adventures, and he will take care of you, making your dreams real. Rishi works hard and is very committed to making everyone s holiday the best. Thank you Satori team, good luck and hope to see you again.