Annapurna I (8091m/26,545ft.) is the 10th highest mountain in the world and eighth highest mountain in Nepal. Annapurna I is lowest 8000m peak but is one of the most technical climbing peaks in the Himalayas. The peak was climbed by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3,1950. It was not until 1970 that Annapurna was summited again from its Northwest Ridge. The peaks exact location can be found at the coordinates of 28°35’45''N83°49’20''E. The Annapurna massif contains six major peaks, Annapurna I (8091m/26,545ft) Annapurna II(7937m/26,040ft) Annapurna III(7555m/24,786ft) Annapurna IV (7525m/24,688ft) Gangapurna (7455m/24,457ft) Annapurna South (7219m/23,684ft).
Annapurna in Sanskrit is literally translated to"full of food"but is normally translated to “Goddess of the Harvests.” In Hinduism, Annapurna is a goddess of fertility and agriculture and an avatar of Durga. The entire massif and surrounding areas are protected within the 7629 square kilometers (2,946 sq mi) Annapurna Conservation Area. This was the first conservation area in Nepal and still remains the largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including the Annapurna Circuit.
Annapurna is one of the world's most technical mountains for that reason it has a bad fatality to summit ratio. The climb is a serious adventure and one of the most difficult 8000m peaks in the world. But there is a hope, a new route was used this year and will be the best and safest route to climb moving forward. The South Face of Annapurna is one of the largest and steepest faces in the world. The face is awesome in size and difficulty. The South Face is 3000 feet higher than the Southwest face of Mt. Everest. The South Face of Annapurna is relatively free of the terrible avalanche hazards that plague the standard routes on the North Face of the mountain.Despite the great difficulty the South Face is a logical route to the summit of Mt. Annapurna.
Satori Adventure provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, food along the trek and other individual services required by clients. Satori advises clients to use a personal climbing Sherpa guide (which we will provide) to help youreach the summit. Your personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp I, camp II and camp III with food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guidethe client on summit day.
After arriving in Kathmandu you will have a day of preparations and briefing for your climbing permit. Following that you will be flying to Pokhara and then driving to Tatopani by jeep. From here you will be trekking to Annapurna South base camp through wild jungles, along the way you will pass through villages such as: Lete and Miristi Khola. After having a few days rest, acclimatize and receive basic training from your Satori Climbing Sherpa guide you will be starting your acclimatization period up to camp I, II and III.
Base camp to camp II is a very technical section of the route. it consists of an unstable and broken glacier that has dangling seracs which can come crashing down at any time. The climb is done with 3 camps. It takes 2 hrs to get from ABC to the bottom of the climb. The start of the route is a steep 70degree section that requires 500m of fixed rope. Here is the objective hazard area of the falling seracs. From camp I to camp II the climbing is slightly less steep but is still difficult with high objective avalanche danger. This section requires roughly 1000m of fixed rope. The route from camp II to camp III requires switchback navigation on the snow field between the seracs of the broken glacier. The summit is on exposed ridge and does not require fixed ropes, it is done as a free ascent.
Satori Adventures operates the Annapurna expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We normally operate the expedition from normal route which is theSouthwest ridge.However, we will operate the Annapurna expedition from the Southwest face and the Northwest Ridge. The approach starts south of Annapurna and takes you through Tatopani, Lete and Miristi Khola. Base camp is usually set up on a flat, grassy area that is sheltered from avalanches. Satori Adventures advanced base camp will be setup for almost a one month period. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different group and at a strategic viewing positions of the Annapurna massif. Satori provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you upon your arrival will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss, it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5300m/17,388ft). In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain. The first section of the ridge rock and glacier. You will fix camp I at the middle of the glacier on a slope of 25º. This is a safe location and is protected form avalanches. This section of the climb is a bit technical and your climbing Sherpa guide will fix rope through this section. Some stronger climbers will skip this camp after and go right to camp II.
The climbing from camp I to camp II is a moderate section of ice with a few mixed sections of climbing. Comparing with others sections the terrain from camp I and camp II is safer and easier but you still have to climb and cross the black rock wall before heading up the glacier. Then you encounter several steep sections of blue ice at 45º, these sections are roughly 50-60, there is also another 60m high rock wall to negotiate. This section is said to be the crux of the route. Camp 2 is situated above the snowy terrace.
Camp II to camp III is the longest distance of 800m/2,655ft. Between camp II and camp III Sherpas will fix 80% of the route. This first section of climbing you will be crossing a glacier from east to west, you will then meet a 55º wall, which is almost 500m in length.Climbers have reported that this section is easier climbing but is still not to be taken lightly, your Sherpa will fix ropes on this section of the route. Be advised that there is exposure to cold and wind in this section. In autumn there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm. This section is little dangerous in autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone.
Climbing from camp III to camp IV feels like a short distance. Continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur which willjoin a big couloir. Camp IV can be set between 7100m-7200m in a panoramic rock cave. As all climbers are aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow and big wall at a 50-55º slope. This section is little dangerous in autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make the section avalanche prone. Satori team will make an easy traverse to Camp IV at 7100m which allows you to have a shorter summit day.
Summit day is the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00-12:00pm. If all goes well you will reach the summit between 7:00-10:00am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via a ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to camp IV from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. It requires an average of 900m of fixed rope above camp IV and below the summit. This is the reason we request almost 900m rope above camp III to the summit. Most sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 10th highest mountain in the world.
Highest access: 8,091m/ 26,545ft
First Ascent: Maurice Herzog & Louis Lachenal, June 3, 1950
Duration: 46 typically Days
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Co-ordinates: 28°35'45''N 83°49'20''E
Location: Nepal/Annapurna Region
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Accommodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu & Pokhara and B, D, L during the trekking and Climbing
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus
Best season: Late spring and autumn
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Hot shower in natural hot spring
Culture: Gurung, Thakali, Magar
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Northwest Ridge and SouthWest face
Himalayan sights: Gangapurna, Fishtail, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1350/4429ft). Transfer to request hotel accommodation for overnight.
Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.
Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) 6hrs.Lodge accommodation.
Day 04: Trek or Drive from Pokhara to Tatopani (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
Day 05: Trek from Tatopani and Lete (2300m/7,546ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
Day 06: Trek from Lete to Jungle camp (2900m/9,515ft) Camping accommodation.
Day 07: Trek from Jungle camp to Miristi Khola(4260m/13976ft) Campingaccommodation.
Day 08: Trek from Miristi Khola to Annapurna-BC (4200m/13,780ft) Camping accommodation.
Day 9-38: Climb Annapurna I (8091m/26545ft.)
Day 39: Trek from Annapurna Base camp to Miristi Khola(4260m/13,976ft) Camping accommodation.
Day 40: Trek from Miristi Khola to Jungle camp (2900m/9,515ft) Camping accommodation.
Day 42: Trek Jungle camp to Lete (2300m/7,546ft) Camping accommodation.
Day 42: Drive from Lete to Tatopani (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs.Tea house accommodation. Explore natural hot spring.
Day 44: Trek from Tatopani to Beni (830m/2723ft)Drive to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus. Request category hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
Day 45: Free and rest day at Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.
Day 46: Transfer to Kathmandu airport for final departure.
Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:
Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.
Satori Adventures offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, oxygen and prepare high altitude food for the client. Full board also includes assisting the client on the route while ensuring their safety and wellbeing.We move at the clients preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the clients safety and wellbeing being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen and Summit system mask regulators.
In Base Camp
Satori Adventures provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize your summit opportunity.
In the base camp our chefs and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious, freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day. We will also ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the base camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpa’s have an extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and organize base camp operations. In base camp our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.
Satori Adventure focuses on comfortable conditions at base camp, including good quality food and other services. We find this helps clients with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetizing meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigorous ascent. We offer various choices that will suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, Vegan, continental, Indian and others.If you have special food consideration, please provide this to us 60 days prior to the expedition so we can plan the best meals for your trip.
The approach on its Annapurna Base camp is through the Annapurna region of Nepal leading up to Annapurna Glassier. It starts with the Drive to Pokhara to Tatopani (1110m/3,641ft), Lete (2300m/7,546ft), Jungle camp (2900m/9,515ft), Miristi Khola(4260m/13976ft), to Annapurna-BC (4200m/13,780ft) Camping accommodation. It takes typically 07 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and continue to acclimate. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, our team of Sherpa’s will begin to open the route to camp I. When this is completed, our guides will begin to take clients and loads to camp I. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp I for a second night, or move up to camp II and then descend back to base camp.
Our team will then open the route and fix the lines to camp II and supply the camp with gear, equipment and food. If required for acclimation and if the weather conditions allow, you may sleep a second night at camp II, or proceed up to camp III and then return. During your rest and time at base camp our team will continue to open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.
After your camp I and II acclimatization, our climbing guides will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp I, camp II and then camp III before moving to the summit. At camp III you will awake at 0100 hours and begin the summit push.
If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return to base camp before the summit push, but still have climbing time, good weather conditions and climbers are interested for another summit push, we will provide one more opportunity. However, more than 98% of climbers either summit on the first try, or give up the trip after the first summit attempt.
Annapurna I was the first 8,000m (26,200ft) peak to be summited. The French expedition was lead by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, (it included Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on 3 June 1950. This summit was the highest attained on Earth for three years, until the first successful ascent of Mount Everest. The first ascent has become one of the classic pieces of mountaineering literature to date.
The South face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston, members of a British expedition. The expedition was led by Chris Bonington and included an alpinist named Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling serac during the descent.
In 1978 the American womens Himalayan expedition, a team led by Arlene Blum became the first American team to climb Annapurna I. The first summit team which wascomposed of Vera Komarkova and Irene Miller and Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Ringjing reached the summit at 3:30 p.m. on October 15, 1978. The second summit team, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Vera Watson, died during this climb.
2011:On February 3, 1987 Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.