Kanchenjunga (8586m/28,169ft) is one of the coolest 8000m mountain expeditions in the Himalaya. The expedition has elements of remoteness and challenging technical climbing on a huge massif. Mt. Kanchenjunga is located on the very remote border between Nepal and Sikkim and attracts relatively few trekkers because of this it retains much of its pristine beauty, mystery and charm. For most mountains above 8500m we advise clients to climb them in the spring season.However,they can also be climbed in autumn, albeit in somewhat difficult snow conditions. There are two famous climbing routes in Kanchenjunga for the main summit. Normal climbing route is along the South east side of the mountain from the Yalung glacier which was the climbing route to the summit. The name “Kanchenjunga” is delivered from the Tibetan word 'Kanchen' and 'Dzonga' which when translated means "The Five Treasures of the Great Snows" as Kanchenjunga Mountain has 5 summits and there are 4 summits above 8000m. The main summit of Kanchenjunga I (8586m) Kanchenjunga West (8505m), Kanchenjunga South (8494m) and Khambachen (7903m). The treasures represent the five repositories of God, which are gold, silver, gems, grain, and holy books. Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on May 25, followed by Norman Hardin and Tony Streather on May 26. The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather, and Tom Mackinnon. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on April 18, and everyone was back to base camp by May 28, 1955 after a successful ascent.
Satori Adventures offers a safe and stimulating climbing experience with Sherpa climbing guides that have been trained in mountaineering skills,first aid and crevasse rescue. Satori Adventures always focuses on professionalism, our climbing Sherpa guides are safety oriented in all aspects relating to the climb. The Mt. Kanchenjunga expedition is accessed from Suketar, a long trek brings you to the Base camp.
There are two Base Camps to climb Kangchenjunga, Kangchenjunga North Base Camp on the Kangchenjunga Glacier and the South Base Camp on Yalung Glacier. The access to both camps is from Suketar (2400m), the town with the closest airport to the mountain with flights to Kathmandu. Suketar is also the last town accessible from Kathmandu by the road. The route from North Base Camp via the North Col is the Normal route. It is not the easiest by it is the safest route with the least of objective hazard. Three of the five peaks (main, central, and south) in Kanchenjunga are on the border of North Sikkim district of Sikkim, India and Taplejung District of Nepal While the other two are completely in Taplejung District. Kanchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world until 1852, and only after the British Great Trigonometric Survey in 1849 was Mt. Everest (known as Peak XV) at the time was crowned the highest and Kanchenjunga the third-highest. Kanchenjunga was first climbed on May 25, 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band of a British expedition team.
Mt. Kanchenjungha is graded at alpine PD+/AD. Climbers need around a 2 month climbing period for the expedition. It will definitely not be recommended for an inexperienced climber or first 8000m expedition but it is a delight for experienced technical climbers. The scenery is phenomenal all the way from the base camp overlooking the Kanchenjunga glacier. The most difficult section is to the South Col of about 500m of mixed ice and rock, climbing Sherpas guide will fix ropes for your safety.
Satori Adventures Kanchenjunga Expedition is lead by professional climbers and who have reached the summit previously. Our staff climbs year round, worldwide and have the necessary experience needed to make the expedition successful and safe. All of Satori Expedition climbing Sherpa guide have extensive experience in the effects and medical treatment of high altitude ailments. Satori always offers reasonable costs but never compete with the lowest prices for our respective expeditions, we don't jam pack our expeditions with twenty or more climbers to gain profits for. We prefer and accept a maximum of 7-8 climbers during the expeditions to allow for more care and safety. The quality of our food and services is considered to be one of the premier operations in the Himalayas. Not having western guides means that our expeditions are more affordable than most for qualified climbers.
Kanchenjungha Yalung base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Kanchenjunga massive. Satori Adventures advanced base camp will be setup for almost 35-40 days. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points with different groups and strategic viewing positions of the Makalu massif. Satori provides a personal tent which becomes your own private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss, it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced mountaineering training by your climbing Sherpa guide at Yalung Glacier, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I 6200m/20,341ft. In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain including a few rock and ice sections.On the first section of rock you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine. Above the BC, the route follows a rocky spur up to 6000m. Then it climbs steep slopes and a serac up to a snow ridge at 6200m where camp I is established. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about two hours, then you reach the crampon point at the short glacier bottom, the glacier portion takes about 2 hours. Camp one is considered a very safe camp. For average climbers it takes about 4 hours.
The climbing from camp I to camp II is the moderate technical section on Mt. Kanchenjunga from south face or Yalung glacier. From camp I, the route follows a short horizontal ridge, and then descends on a plateau and then cross this plateau. CampII is located at the end of the plateau at the bottom of the face. During this section you encounter the heart of ice and snow. The first section is just slogging over snow for about 20 minutes to get down on the glacier, and then you encounter several steep sections of ice.There are small sections of ice fall they do not require ladders. They can be crossed with the use of fixed ropes and big steps. Most of the route is fixed climbing Sherpa guides on a 30-35ºslope. For most people this is the crux of the route. Camp 2 is situated above the snowy terrace in middle bottom of the ridge. This is shortest camp between two. Expect that this section will take you about 2½ to maximum 3 hours for slow climbers
Camp II to camp III is the longest distance on the route, you encounter an elevation gain of 700m/2,297ft. At 6800m you encounter the base of the large serac which is roughly 20m high and overhanging at the end. It does not require any ladder crossings, but there are a few crevasses that are roughly a half meter that need to be jumped. This section for most climbers feels easier, but still it is not to be taken lightly, the climbing is still on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. The trail is good and the route to pass the first serac is easy. The view from the C3 is amazing although in spring there has been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm. This is the camp from where almost 10% climbers plan for summit push. However Satori adventures always fixed camp IV before summit so that clients can get a half nights rest. The main ropes are fixed by climbing Satori’s climbing Sherpa team.
Climbing from camp III to camp IV feels like a short distance. From camp III continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur, at the base of the big couloir. Camp IV can be set around 7550m. Oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow that is 50-55º. This section is little dangerous in autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone. Satori team makes an easy traverse to Camp Four at 7550m which allows you to make a shorter summit day.
Summit day is the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00 Pm. If all goes well they reach the summit between 7-9am. From the camp 4, climb the Couloir up to 8,250 m. The Couloir splits in two, take the right side and traverse Diagonal to the base of a steep wall around 8,400m, Climb the wall which is graded IV, continue to a rocky tower at around 8,450m. Climb a short snowy ridge then traverse to the right to a Chimney at around 8,500 m. Rappel down the Chimney, traverse to the right on mixed terrain to join a snow slope leading to the main summit at 8,586 m. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 03rd highest mountain in the world.
Highest access: 8586m (28,169ft)
First Ascent: Mr. Joe Brown and George Band, British Expedition, May 25, 1955
Duration: 60 (typically) Days
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Co-ordinates: 27°42'10''N / 88°09'00''E
Location: Nepal/Sikkim border; Kanchenjunga
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: Alpine PD+/AD
Accommodation: Five star hotel in Kathmandu
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L, D in during trekking and climbing
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus
Best season: Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Trekking/climbing
Culture: Sherpa, Rai and Limbu
Mode of Travel: Camping
Climbing route: Southeast Ridge
Himalayan sights: Kanchenjunga, Baruntse, Kanchanjunga South
03 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4,430ft).
4-5 April/ Day 2-3: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and formalities.
06 April/Day 04: Drive from Kathmandu to Phidim(1200m/3,937ft) 12hrs.Overnight hotel accommodation.
07 April/Day 05: Drive from Phidim to Khamdani via Dahalgaonby a local Jeep (1650m/5,413ft) 4hrs. Overnight at tea house/camping accommodation.
08 April/Day 06: Trek from Khamdani to Khebang(1910m/6,267ft) 5 hrs.Tea house/camping accommodation.
09 April/Day 07: Trek from Khebang to Yamphudin(2080m/6,824ft) 7hrs.Tea house/ camping accommodation.
10 April/Day 08: Trek from Yamphudin to Tortong(2995m/9,826ft) 8 hrs.Tea house/camping accommodation.
11 April/Day 09: Trek from Tortong to Cheram(Tseram)(3870m/12,697ft) 7hrs.Teahouse/camping accommodation.
12 April/Day 10: Trek from Tseram to Ramche call as Ramchaur (4530m/14,862ft) 5hrs.Teahouse/camping accommodation.
13 April/Day 11: Rest and acclimatization day before reaching Tso Glassier camp.
14 April/Day 12: Trek from Ramche to glacier camp (5176m/16,981ft) 6hrs. Camping accommodation.
15 April/Day 13: Trek from Tso glacier camp to Kanchenjunga Advance base camp (5400m/17,717ft) 6hrs.
16-25May/D 14-53: Kanchenjunga climbing period (8586m/28,169ft)Summit.
26 May/Day 54: Preparation and clean the camp for return
27 May/Day 55: Trek from Yalung Base camp to Ramche(4530m/14,862ft) 7hrs.
28 May/Day 52: Trek from Ramche to Tortang (2995m/9,826ft) 8hrs.
29 May/Day 53: Trek from Tortang to Yamphudin(2080m/6,824ft) 5hrs.Tea house/camping accommodation.
30 May/Day 54: Trek from Yamphudin to Khebang(1910m/6,267ft) 5 hrs. Tea house/ camping accommodation.
31 May/Day 55: Trek from Khebang to Khamdanivia Dahalgaon(1650m/5,413ft) 6hrs.Tea house/camping accommodation.
01 June/Day 56: Drive from Khamdani to Ilam(3636m/11,930ft) 7 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
02 June/Day 57: Drive from Ilam to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
03 June/Day 58: Leisure and shopping,.Farewell-celebration dinner in the evening.
04 June/Day 59: Transfer to the airport for final departure
Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:
Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.
In Full board service
Satori Adventures offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, oxygen and prepare high altitude food for the client. Full board also indistinguishable client on the route while ensuring their safety and well being.We move at the clients preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the clients safety and wellbeing being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen and Summit system mask regulators.
In Base Camp
Satori Adventures provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize your summit opportunity.
In the base camp our chefs and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious, freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day. We will also ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the base camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpa’s have an extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and organize base camp operations. In base camp our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.
Satori Adventure focuses on comfortable conditions at base camp, including good quality food and other services. We find this helps clients with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetizing meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigorous ascent. We offer various choices that will suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, Vegan, continental, Indian and others.If you have special food consideration, please provide this to us 60 days prior to the expedition so we can plan the best meals for your trip.
The approach on its Kanchenjunga Southeast Ridge Base camp is through the Taplajung region of Nepal leading up to Tso Glassier. It starts with the drive from Kathmandu to Phidim(1200m/3,937ft) to Khamdani via Dahalgaonby a local Jeep (1650m/5,413ft) to Khebang(1910m/6,267ft), Yamphudin(2080m/6,824ft), Tortong(2995m/9,826ft), Cheram(Tseram)(3870m/12,697ft), Ramchaur (4530m/14,862ft), Glacier camp (5176m/16,981ft), Kanchenjunga Advance base camp (5400m/17,717ft) It takes typically 10days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and continue to acclimate. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, our team of Sherpa’s will begin to open the route to camp I. When this is completed, our guides will begin to take clients and loads to camp I. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp I for a second night, or move up to camp II and then descend back to base camp.
Our team will then open the route and fix the lines to camp II and supply the camp with gear, equipment and food. If required for acclimation and if the weather conditions allow, you may sleep a second night at camp II, or proceed up to camp III and then return. During your rest and time at base camp our team will continue to open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.
After your camp I and II acclimatization, our climbing guides will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp I, camp II and then camp III before moving to the summit. At camp III you will awake at 0100 hours and begin the summit push.
If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return to base camp before the summit push, but still have climbing time, good weather conditions and climbers are interested for another summit push, we will provide one more opportunity. However, more than 98% of climbers either summit on the first try, or give up the trip after the first summit attempt.
1899: British explorer Douglas Freshfield and the Italian photographer Vittorio Sella were the first to circumnavigate the mountain. They were the first mountaineers to view the great Western Face of Kanchenjunga.
1905: Headed by Aleister Crowley, who had been part of the team attempting the
1902: ascent of K2, and Dr. Jules Jacot-Guillarmod. The team reached an estimated 6,500 meters on the southwest side of the mountain before turning back.
1929: A German expedition led by Paul Bauer reached 7400m (24,280ft) on the Northeast spur before being turned back by a five-day storm.
1954: A reconnaissance of Kanchenjunga southwest side was made by John Kempe (leader), J.W. Tucker, Ron Jackson, Trevor H. Braham, G.C. Lewis, and Dr. D.S. Mathews, which identified the route used by the successful the 1955 expedition.
First Ascent 1955: May15th Jan Cusi and Leonel Terrey summitted Makalu via the North col.
1955: Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent on May 25, followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather on May 26. The full team also included John Clegg (team doctor), Charles Evans (team leader), John Angelo Jackson, Neil Mather, and Tom Mackinnon. The first ascent expedition made six camps above their base camp, two below the Shelf, two on it, and two above it. They started on April 18, and everyone was back to base camp by May 28.
1973: Climbers Yutaka Ageta and Takeo Matsuda of the Japanese expedition summitted Kangchenjunga West (Yalung Kang) by climbing the SW Ridge.
1977: The second ascent of Kanchenjunga, by an Indian army team led by Colonel Narinder Kumar. They completed the Northeast spur, the difficult ridge that defeated the German expeditions in 1929 and 1931.
1978: Polish teams made the first successful ascent of the Kangchenjunga South summit (Wojciech Wróż and Eugeniusz Chrobak, 19 May) and Kangchenjunga Central (Wojciech Brański, Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich, Kazimierz Olech, 22 May)
1979: The third ascent, on May 15, and the first without oxygen, by Doug Scott, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker establishing a new route on the North Ridge.
1983: Pierre Beghin made the first solo ascent and the first ascent without oxygen.
1991: Marija Frantar and Joze Rozman attempted the first ascent by a woman but their bodies were later found below the summit headwall.
1991: Andrej Stremfelj and Marko Prezelj completed an alpine-style climb up the south ridge of Kangchenjunga to the south summit (8494m)
1986: On January 11, Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka, Polish climbers, made the first winter ascent.
1998: Ginette Harrison became the first woman to reach the summit. Until then Kangchenjunga was the only eight-thousander that had not seen a female ascent.
2006: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, an Austrian mountaineer, was the second woman to reach the summit.
2009: Edurne Pasaban, a Spanish mountaineer, reached the summit, becoming the first woman to summit 12 eight-thousand meter peaks.
2009: Kinga Baranowska became the first Polish female climber to reach the Summit of Kangchenjunga
The third time I visited Nepal was no doubt for me who I should ask for help in management and preparations, as far as the trip was to remotest area in Nepal to the third highest mountain of world Kanchenjunga. Rishi Ram Bhandari, Managing director of Satori Adventures who offered excellent and complete solution for the whole expedition.
They organized our trip in the professional ways. Foods, accommodation and Transportation were very good. Our guide Mr. Tamang and the porters were experience and Qualified. After a few years of cooperation I see that Satori Adventures can be a reliable partner for any kind of activities in Nepal! From a simple day-tours, and up to expeditions to summits of World's highest mountains!
I want to recommend Satori Adventures for your Nepal tour.