Mount Makalu (8485m/27,838ft) by an American team led by William Siri for the first time climbed in the spring of 1954. Mount Makalu Expedition was composed of Sierra Club members, including Allen Steck, William E. Long, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team, including Sir Edmund Hillary, was also active in the spring but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy during a French trip to Jean Franco. The expedition was composed of Sierra Club members, including Allen Steck, William E. Long, and was called the California Himalayan Expedition to Makalu. A New Zealand team, including Edmund Hillary, attempted the route but was turned back due to injury and illness. These were all significant achievements especially considering that Makalu is such a rugged peak.
The fifth highest mountain globally, Makalu, lies in the Mahalangur Himalayas, which is 19 km southeast of Mount Everest. On the line among Nepal and China, one of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is a disconnected pinnacle whose shape is a four-sided pyramid.
The Southeast Ridge and the Northwest Ridge are the main climbing routes on Mt. Makalu. The 8485m peak usually takes around 54 days to climb. Most climbers can climb Makalu in both the spring and autumn seasons. However, spring is more suitable for good weather and snow conditions. It lies at the coordinates of 27°53'21" N and 87°05'27" E. The way to deal with Makalu is lovely and exquisite. The Barun Valley gives shocking differentiations where high cascades course into profound chasms, rugged rocks ascend from great green woods, and bright blossoms sprout underneath white snow tops. This particular scene shields a portion of the keep going clean mountain environments on earth. Uncommon types of creatures and plants prosper in different environments and natural surroundings, generally undisturbed by humankind. With seven valleys radiating from Mt. Makalu and its almost symmetrical four ridges, it presents an incredibly balanced elegance. Within this wide range of altitudes and climates, the Makalu-Barun area contains some of Nepal's richest and most diverse flora and fauna. Various ethnic communities of Rai, Sherpa, and Shingsawa have inhibited the lower parts of the country.
The climbing itself is appropriate for both the experienced climber and the novice climber making their first 8,000-meter peak ascent. The climbing consists of easy glaciers low on the mountain, steep ice and snow climbing to the Makalu La, and a final rock ridge to the summit above Camp IV. Makalu is a steep and consistent climb, and in the spring season has excellent snow coverage and low hazards like icefalls, rock falling, and avalanche. Satori Adventures utilizes oxygen above 7,200 meters and Sherpa support with fixed ropes throughout the climb. Each climbing day is reasonable in length and difficulty. However, Satori Adventures will provide only Base Camp Administrations for climbers who need to do the top in an unsupported style. The other energizing part of climbing Makalu is the absence of groups. While we hope to impart the mountain to different groups, they will be little and robust for the most part. It gives us support on the hill to establish the route and ropes but avoids any overcrowding common on other 8000-meter peaks.
The trekking into the base camp and Makalu is breathtaking and takes you back in time when you approached all Himalayan mountains on foot. After a 25 minute flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar, the trek begins from a low elevation of 920m. Climbers have a great chance to acclimatizes the trail goes through Num (1800m), Seduwa (1510m), Tashi Gaon (2070m), Khongma(3760m), Mumbuk (3550m), Yangri Kharka (3600m), Sherson (4800m) and finally Makalu base camp (4870m). It is the perfect way to acclimatize before base camp reach and to take on climbing relatively quickly.
Satori Adventures always follows a cautious acclimatization schedule. We will utilize four camps on the mountain and use center I and camp II for acclimatization purposes, climbing to 7000m before descending to advanced base camp in anticipation of a summit attempt. The summit push will go directly from camp IItocamp III on the Makalu La, and we will then place camp IV to create a shorter summit day. Traditionally there is a meager base camp, ABC camp at 5500m, C1 (6,500m), C2 (7,300m) at the bottom of the Southeast peak ridge, and C3 (7,900m) and a high camp.
Makalu Advanced base camp lies on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. For almost one month, Satori Adventures will set up an advanced base camp. On an 8000m, expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally, base camp becomes a home away from home on any long expedition. We establish our camp at a walking distance between different groups and a Makalu massif's strategic view. Satori provides a personal tent that becomes your private retreat, a dining tent, a common area, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. When you arrive at base camp, it will already be fully established, with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. There will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Before your climbing period, you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This Nepalese tradition is not to miss, and it represents a safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I, which is at the height of 6400m/21,000ft. You will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs, and moraine in the first section of the glacier. Once on the glacier, you will experience mixed terrain, including a few crevasses and 200m of blue ice. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour after that, and you reach the crampon point at the glacier's mouth; the glacier portion takes about 2 hours. For average climbers, it takes about 3-4 hours. Camp I is divided into two sections, the lower camp I and upper base I; the distance between the two is 100m/328ft. So base one is fixed between 6400m-6500m.
The climbing from camp I to camp II is considered the intermediate technical section on Mt. Makalu. During this section, you encounter the heart of ice and snow. The first section is slogging over snow for about an hour, and then you meet several steep areas of ice; there are small sections of ice fall that do not require a ladder. The support of fixed ropes areas can cross, a few significant steps, and some steep snow climbing. For most people, this is the crux of the route. This section will take slow climbers about 2½-3 hours. Camp 2 lies above the snowy terrace.
The distance from camp II to camp III is the most extended section of the route, and it extends 600m/1,968ft. It does not require any ladder crossings, but a few crevasses are roughly a half meter long that need to jump. A climbing Sherpa team fixes the main ropes. This section for most climbers feels more comfortable, but still, it is not to take lightly. The climbing is on sustained slopes, and there is exposure to cold and wind. However, there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section in spring, making it feel hot. The camp that 40% of climbers plan to do their summit push. However, Satori Adventures always fixes camp IV before the summit so that clients can get a half night's rest. This section takes about 4 hours for average climbers and 5 hours for slower and first time 8000m climbers.
Climbing from camp III to camp IV feels like a short day, the distance is short, but now you are nearing the death zone. The oxygen levels are deficient at this altitude, so it expects that any effort, no matter how minimal or trivial, will feel arduous. In this section, you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow on a 50º-55º slope. This section is a little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice that makes the section avalanche prone. The reason that Satori Adventures only operates in the spring season. Many consider the crux of t route to be the Seignior Wall, which will cross here. Above right above Makalu la will set up camp. The Satori team makes an easy traverse to camp IV at 7900m, which allows you to have a shorter summit day.
The main goal during the climbing period is the summit. Most climbers start their highest point offer at 11:00 pm. If all works out positively, they arrive at the meeting between 7-10 am. Under the most noteworthy point is a counterfeit finish; the central panel reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 5 hours to return to Camp 4 from the end and another 2 hours to get to camp three for an overnight stay. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the proper forum for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail, and make every effort to help the group reach the summit of the 5th highest mountain in the world.
Highest access: 8485m (27,838ft)
First Ascent: J. Franco's French Expedition. Jean Couzy and Lionel Terray. 1955
Duration: 62 days (typically) Days
Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group.
Co-ordinates: 27°53'21''N / 87°05'27''E
Location: Mahalangur Parbat
Country: Nepal
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: PD+ Scottish Grade III/IV
Accommodation: Tourists request-five star hotel
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu. B,L,D during the trekking and climbing periods
Transportation: Car, Flight, Tourist bus
Best season: Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Scenic flight to Tumlingtar
Culture: Sherpa and Rai
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: South East Ridge/ Northwest Ridge
Himalayan sights: Everest, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga
1849: Makalu was registered by Indian Topographical expedition as Peak XIII.
1921: Topographical expedition leaded by Howard Burey made the description of the Makalu region and took pictures of the summit.
1951:A group of Britains Everest Committee led by Eric Shenton located the routes on theSouth face.
1954: First attempts of ascents: American mountaineers leaded by W. Seyra climbed up to 7100 m via the Southern ridge. Britain mountaineers reached 6 500 m in the direction to the North col.
First Ascent 1955: May15th Jan Cusi and Leonel Terrey summitted Makalu via the North col.
1970: Japanese mountaineers Ch. Takanaka and I. Otsaki climbed the South-East ridge of Makalu.
1971: West ridge was climbed. Members of French expedition J. Senior and B. Millet summit Makalu
T1973: Makalu, South face was climbed. (Czech expedition, leaded by Ivan Galfi).
1976: Makalu, South-West face was climbed via the buttress (Czech expedition, leaded by Ivan Galfi). Climbers that reached the summited included: M. Krissak , K. Shubert and Spaniard J. Kamprubi.
1981: (autumn) After the unsuccessful attempt to climb the West face Kukuchka successfully soloed the North-West buttress.
1990: (spring) For the first time a woman climbed the West ridge as a member of an American expedition, via one of the most difficult routes up the peak. Kitty Kalon-Griss and Jott Chat reached the summit on the 18th of May, from an altitude of 7800m.
1997: The West face was successfully summited. The Russian expedition to the West Face of Makalu, lead by Sergey Efimov climbed to the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route went on Parago ridge. Summiteers included: Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline. For this ascent they were awarded the "Golden ice-axe".
2001: Sherpa Lhakpa Dorje became the first climber in history to summit Makalu twice.
2009: On February 9th, Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko became the first people to make a successful winter ascent of Makalu. This was the final Nepali 8000 meter peak to be climbed in the winter.
I have done multiple Expeditions including 8000m peaks that have all been organized by Satori Adventures from the beginning on :) There haven been always "solutions" instead of "problems" and it helped the success of all of my trips that I was able to focus on climbing while I had somebody reliable to provide a trustworthy framework. The staff of Satori Adventure are very disciplined and experienced. They always planned and doing there best how to climb the mountain safely and successfully. My next 8000m mountain climbing will be accompanied by Satori adventures in the near future. See you Then!!! Jost