Dhaulagiri Expedition is the foreboding peak climbing in nepal. The first successful summit was not until 1960. Dhaulagiri's sheer size is unparalleled to any other peak, it rises over 7000m over the Kali Gandaki Valley and is 30km long, which by any standard is an impressive statistic. The majority of ascents to date have been made via the first ascent route, which is known as the "Normal Route" on the mountain. There have also been other ascents that have been made from almost every direction.
The massif Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and 2 faces in South and Western aspects. Each rise 4000m from their respected base camps. Dhaulagiri has 5 summit peaks: Dhaulagiri I is (8167m/26,795ft) Dhaulagiri II (7751m/25,430ft) Dhaulagiri III (7715m/25,311ft) Dhaulagiri IV (7661m/25,135ft) Dhaulagiri V (7618m/24,992ft) Surrounding the massive 8000m peak is: Churen Himal Main (7371m/24,183ft) Gurja Himal (6342m/20,807ft) Putha Hiunchuli (7246m/23,772ft) Junction Peak (4235m/13,894ft).
Satori Adventures and Expedition operate the summit Dhaulagiri expedition in both spring and autumn seasons with full board and Dhaulagiri base camp logistic services. We offer services to groups or single participants. Satori Adventures always provides a safe and secure mountaineering in a trusting and friendly environment. We provide professional, supportive, and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the advanced base camp of Dhaulagiri through Darbang by bus, a trek through Dharapani, Muri, Bagar, Italy base camp, Japanese camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Satori Adventures provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics including airfare, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC, we organize logistics for the provision of all required accommodation and food. During the base camp and climbing period in the base camp, our chefs and kitchen assistants will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will make sure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients in the base camp, both with full board or base-camp services. We also offer a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities, and tent accommodation for our staff in the base camp.
Dhaulagiri is typically climbed from the Northeast Ridge route. Typically four camps will be set up above base camp. The advanced base camp (5300m) Camp I(5900m)Camp II(6400m)Camp III(7200m)Camp IV(7500m).
Satori Adventures always operates the Dhaulagiri expedition in both autumn and spring seasons. We normally operate the expedition from the normal route "Northeast Ridge)but we will operate the Dhaulagiri expedition from the Southeast, Southwest and the Northwest. Groups requesting these options need to be a minimum of 5-6 people in a team.
The approach starts south of Dhaulagiri, trekking through the Majhangdi Khola, the gorge between the Dhaulagiri I & II around the North face of the mountain. Base camp is usually set up across from the Eiger, a steep rock tower that separates the North face from the Northeast spur. The Eiger is notorious for producing avalanches. The first part of the climb consists of a lengthy trek up the ice fall that starts at the foot of the Eiger and goes up towards the saddle between Dhaulagiri and Tukche-Ri. From there the climbers venture on to the actual Northeast ridge for the first time.
Satori Adventures advanced base camp will be setup for almost one month period. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different group and with a strategic viewing position of the Dhaulagiri massif. Satori provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpas. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss; it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed the basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5450m/21,000ft). In this section of the climb, you will encounter mixed terrain. The first section of the ridge is known as Jacobs Ladder and is a moderately technical limestone and snow climb. Nowadays, the top of the ladder forms camp II location, but the 1960 expedition had set up an intermediate camp near the top of the icefall. Before the first section of the glacier, you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs and a moraine. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about two hours and requires fixing rope for almost 200m at a slope of 35-40º.
The climbing from camp I to camp II is the moderate section of the route and ascends ice and few mixed climbing sections. Comparing with other camps the distance between camp I and camp II is safer and easier. Here you will encounter the heart of the ice and snow. The first section is just slogging over snow for about two hours, and then you encounter several steep section of blue ice at 35-40º slope and extends for50-60 meters, these sections do not require a ladder. For most people this is the crux of the route. Camp II is situated above the snowy terrace.
Camp II to camp III is the long distance of 1000m/3,281ft. Between camp II and camp III 100% route need to be fixed the like by Sherpa climbing guide. This section for most climbers feels easier and safe because most of the route is fixed.This section is not to be taken lightly, the climbing is on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. Although in autumn there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm. In this climbing section, you have to climb about 4 hours along blue ice and snow that is on a 35-45º slope. This section is a little dangerous in spring season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice, which makes the section avalanche prone. This is the reason Satori Adventures advises our clients to climb in the autumn season rather than the spring season.
Summit day is the main goal of the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid between 11:00-01:00 is. If all goes well, they reach the summit between 7:00-10:00 am. Below the main peak is a false summit. The main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp III from the summit and another 3 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. The route requires 400m of fixed rope above camp III below the serac another 400m of fixed rope above the serac and below the false summit another 100m. So we require almost 900m of rope above camp three to summit on a 35-50º slope. Most of the sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the lower divisions, as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls, the route becomes increasingly tricky. The climb passes through the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Satori Adventures Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group in reaching the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.
Highest access: 8167m (26,795ft)
First Ascent: Swiss-Austrian team, May 13, 1960
Duration: 46 typically Days
Group Size: 02-10 People per group
Co-ordinates: 28°41'48''N 83°29'42''E
Location: Dhaulagiri Himal
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: AD/Scottish Grade IV
Accommodation: Five star hotel in Kathmandu
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period
Transportation: Car, Flight, Tourist bus
Best season: Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Side tour to Pokhara & Kathmandu
Culture: Gurung, Thakali, Magar
Mode of Travel: Camping
Climbing route: Northeast Ridge
Himalayan sights: Mt. Annapurna, Mt. Putha Hunchuli, Mt. Machhapuchhre (Fishtail)
03 Sep/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1350m/4,429ft). Transfer to hotel for overnight stay.
04 Sep/Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.
05 Sep/Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) 6hrs.Lodge accommodation.
06 Sep/Day 04: Drive from Pokhara to Darbang (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs Lodge accommodation.
07 Sep/Day 05: Trek from Darbang to Phaliya Gaon (1850m/6,070ft) 6 hrs.Teahouse/camping accommodation.
08 Sep/Day 06: Trek from Phaliya Gaun to Muri.(1850m/6,068ft) 3 hrs. Teahouse/camping accommodation.
08 Sep/Day 07: Trek from Muri to Boghara (2080m/6,823ft) 4 hrs. Teahouse/camping accommodation.
09 Sep/Day 08: Treks from Bagar to Dobhan Kharka (2520m 8,266ft), Teahouse/camping accommodation.
10 Sep/Day 09: Trek from Doban Kharka to Sallaghari (3100m/10,170ft) Teahouse/camping accommodation.
11 Sep/Day 10: Trek from Sallaghari to Italian Base Camp (3660m/12,005ft). Camping accommodation.
12 Sep/Day 11: Rest and acclimatization day at Italian Base Camp before pass.
13 Sep/Day 12: Trek from Italian base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4750m /15,584ft).
14-11 Oct/Day 13-40: Climbing Period Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795ft)
12 Oct/Day 41: Preparation to return and clean up the base camp.
13 Oct/Day 42: Trek from Dhaulagiri base camp to Yak Kharka(4930m/16174ft) Camping accommodation.
13 Oct/Day 43: Trek from Yak Kharka to Tukuche (2590m/8,496ft) Drive to Tatopani(1190m/3,904ft).
14 Oct/Day 44: Trek from Tatopani to Beni (830m/2,723ft.) Drive to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus. Request hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
15 Oct/Day 45: Free and rest day at Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.
16 Oct/Day 46: Transfer to Kathmandu airport for final departure.
Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:
Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.
In Full board service
Satori Adventures offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, oxygen and prepare high altitude food for the client. Full board also indistinguishable client on the route while ensuring their safety and well being.We move at the clients preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the clients safety and wellbeing being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen and Summit system mask regulators.
In Base Camp
Satori Adventures provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize your summit opportunity.
In the base camp our chefs and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious, freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day. We will also ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the base camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpa’s have an extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and organize base camp operations. In base camp our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.
Satori Adventure focuses on comfortable conditions at base camp, including good quality food and other services. We find this helps clients with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetizing meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigorous ascent. We offer various choices that will suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, Vegan, continental, Indian and others.If you have special food consideration, please provide this to us 60 days prior to the expedition so we can plan the best meals for your trip.
The approach on its south side is through the Annapurna region of Nepal leading up to Dhaulagiri Base camp. It starts with the Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) to Darbang (1110m/3,641ft) and reach to Advance Base camp via Phaliya Gaon (1850m/6,070ft) , Muri.(1850m/6,068ft),Boghara (2080m/6,823ft), Dobhan Kharka (2520m 8,266ft), Sallaghari (3100m/10,170ft), Italian Base Camp (3660m/12,005ft), to Advance base Camp (5600m/18,373ft). It takes typically 12 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and continue to acclimate. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, our team of Sherpa’s will begin to open the route to camp I. When this is completed, our guides will begin to take clients and loads to camp I. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp I for a second night, or move up to camp II and then descend back to base camp.
Our team will then open the route and fix the lines to camp II and supply the camp with gear, equipment and food. If required for acclimation and if the weather conditions allow, you may sleep a second night at camp II, or proceed up to camp III and then return. During your rest and time at base camp our team will continue to open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.
After your camp I and II acclimatization, our climbing guides will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp I, camp II and then camp III before moving to the summit. At camp III you will awake at 0100 hours and begin the summit push.
If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return to base camp before the summit push, but still have climbing time, good weather conditions and climbers are interested for another summit push, we will provide one more opportunity. However, more than 98% of climbers either summit on the first try, or give up the trip after the first summit attempt.
1950: The peak was considered by the French expedition led by Maurice Herzog.They did not see a feasible route and switched their objective to Annapurna, where they succeeded in making the first ascent of an 8000m peak.
1953-1958: Five expeditions attempted the North Face route.
1959: An Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec makes the first attempt on the Northeast Ridge which will become the first ascent route the following year.
1960: First successful summit by Swiss-Austrian expedition.
1969: American team ofseven team membersled by Boyd Everett attempt the Southeast Ridge. They all perish on the mountain.
1970: The second ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first-ascent route. Japanese expedition reach the summit on October 20.
1973: An American team led by James Morrissey make the third ascent of Dhaulagiri via the first ascent route (Northeast Ridge).
1978 spring: Takashi Amemiya returns, after an unsuccessful attempt in 1975.This expedition puts five members on the summit via the Southwest Ridge. This is the first time another route than the Northeast Ridge was climbed.
1978 autumn: Japanese expedition lead by Seiko Tanaka successfully climbs the very difficult Southeast Ridge. Four team members died during the ascent.
1979: A Japanese expedition led by a woman, Michiko Takahashi, climbs Dhaulagiri II via the East Ridge and Dhaulagiri V via the south ridge. They place camps on the summits of both peaks, and members of the expedition make traverses along the 4 km (2.4 mi) intervening ridge, all above 7150m.
1980: Two Polish climbers: Voytek Kurtyka and Ludwik Wiczyczynski afrenchman René Ghilini and a scotsman Alex MacIntyre climbed the East face and topped out on the Northeast ridge at 7500 meters.1981: Yugoslav team reaches 7950m after putting up the first route on the South Face of the mountain.
1984: Three members of the Czechoslovakian expedition (J. Simon, K. Jakes, J. Stejskal) reached the summit via the monumental west face of the mountain. J. Simon died during the descent.
1985:First winter ascent by Polish expedition including Jerzy Kukuczka via the standard route, summit on January 21.
1993: A Russian-British team puts up the Direct North Face Route.
2007: Fredrik Ericsson attempted the first ever ski descent. Bad weather and unstable snow conditions forced him to turn around 7900m. Ericsson skied more than 3000 vertical meters down to base camp.
This was the first time attempting an 8K summit. Apart from the long preparation to it, physical and mental, the month passed on the mountain was out of this world, spending time with other national teams, side to side was a big challenge but at the same time a huge excitement. Satori team have made this period unique, from the day to day activities to all the comforts along the trip (trust me is not easy when you stay for a long time above 4500m. The entire team was friendly and spending time with them was also helpful for the mental state. Now is time to prepare for the next challenge, of course with Satori....stay tuned.