Mount Lhotse (8516M/27,940ft.) was first climbed on May 18th,1956 when Mr. Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss from Switzerland. In 1955 the International Himalayan Expedition team, led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, reached 8100m on Lhotse. The group included two Austrian climbers Erwin Schneider, Ernst Senn, and two Swiss Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel. They were accompanied by almost 200 local porters and 8 climbing Sherpas guide. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention to the Northwest face of Lhotse. The groups were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. When the team noted the coordinate of 27° 57'45" N 86° 56'03" E was the real summit location, south col became the usual climbing route. The caravan route of Mt. Lhotse Expedition is the same as the route with Mt. Everest. All expedition team of Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse reach just below the South col on the Lhotse face and set up camp I, II, III at the same place. After considering the history and previous climbing experience, Satori Adventures noted that Mt. Lhotse Expedition is extremely technical compared to Mt. Manaslu, Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu.
Mt. Lhotse is becoming famous for its tremendous and dramatic South face. The South faceraises 3.2 km and is 2.25 km wide making it the steepest face of this size in the world. Hence it is registered as one of the most extremely difficult climbs and is rarely attempted. Lhotse is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located right away south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. In fact Lhotse has 3 summits. The main summit of Lhotse is at elevation of (8,516m /27,940ft), Lhotse Middle (8,414m/27,605ft) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m/27,503ft). As of now most of the climbers and mountain lovers formerly note that there are only 14 mountains above 8000m on the earth.8 of those mountains lie in Nepal but recently it has been changed and it seems that there are 12 8000m mountains in the Himalaya if you count Lhotse Middle, Lhotse Sher, Kanchenjunga middle and South east. The Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached
The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb about a 1000m wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40-45 degree with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Satori climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face. The approached Lhotse route is through the famous Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4750m). After half an hour scenic flight to Lukla (Which is known as the Khumbu gateway point) you will be trekking toward Namche Bazaar (3400m), Tengboche (3800m), Pheriche (4200m), Lobuche (4710m), Gorak Shep (5150m) to Everest/Lhotse; Base Camp (5200m). It takes typically 8-9 days to reach Advance base camp from Kathmandu.
The Lhotse expedition is a serious logistical excursion with lots of food, supplies and equipment being hauled up along the Everest Base Camp trek by armies of porters and Sherpa guides carrying ropes, ladders and equipment to high camps.Clients wait patiently in the base camp as the Sherpa set up miles of fixed lines and find the path for their clients. The Lhotse climbing expedition along the South col is calling the normal Lhotse climbing route. The summit program will be dependent upon weather and snow conditions, but in general will be a single push of 6 consecutive days from base camp and will go as follows: Base Camp – Camp II(6400M): Camp 2 – Camp 3 Camp III (7100m): Camp III– Camp IV Camp IV (7900m):Camp IV – Summit(8516M)– Camp 4: Camp 4 – Camp 2: Camp 2 – Base Camp.
Once past the Khumbu icefall the route is not that challenging technically and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger. The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb in Lhotse. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpas guides (Ice fall enactor) set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.
Lhotse base camp is located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh, but beautiful and is surrounded by Pumori, Lola and Nuptse, The Khumbu Icefall experiences warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC it looks and feels like a small village in the Himalaya.
Reaching C1 is the most technical part of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp I for acclimation. Once you have proper acclimation our plans calls for us to move up and down directly from camp II for safely.
Camp II is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of West ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views of Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt. This is the camp that you will spend most time after base camp.
Climbing the Lhotse Face to camp III is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to camp III, but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.
Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse on the South. Camp IV is the last camp, it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp IV: The Yellow Band a layer of marble, phyllite and semischist rock and the Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.
The last section of the climb from camp III to camp IV takes 11-16 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face raises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80 degree bulge. The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face, before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.
Highest access: (8516M/27940ft.)
First Ascent: May 18th, 1956 by a Swiss team composed of Ernst Reiss & Fritz Luchsinger
Duration: 60 days (typically) Days
Group Size: 1-10 people per group.If more we split the group
Co-ordinates: 27°57'45'' N, 86°56'03'' E
Location: Nepal/Tibet border, 30km west of Everest
Airport: Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Accommodation: Tea house during trek & Camping during climbing period
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu. B/L/D during the trekking and climbing periods
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Flight
Best season: Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity: Natural beauty of Sherpa Community
Culture: Sherpa and Tamang
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: South Col
Himalayan sights: Ama Dablam, Everest, Makalu
04 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4,430ft).
05 April/Day 02: Preparation and briefings at Departments of Tourism, last minute shopping.
06 April/Day 03: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8,694ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
07 April/Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu villages (3440m/11,286ft) 6hrs. Lodge accommodation.
08 April/Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization.You will be hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12,487ft) 3hrs. Catch a glimpse of Everest.Explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with slide show program.
09 April/Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3850m/12,631ft) 5-6 hrs.Visit significant Buddhist monastery.Lodge accommodation.
10 April/Day 07: Trek from Tengboche to Dengboche (4350m/14,271ft) 4-5 hrs. Catch glimpses of Ama Dablam and Lhotse.Lodge accommodation.
11 April/Day 08: Acclimatization in Dingboche(4350M/14,271ft).Hiking up to Chukung-Re.
12 April/Day 09: Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m/16,463ft) 4-5hrs.Lodge accommodation.
13 April/Day 10: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m/16,962ft) 3hrs.Lodge accommodation.
14 April/Day 11: Morning acclimatize to Kalapther (5554m) after breakfast Trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp (5200m/17060ft) 2hrs.
15 April-28 May/Day12-55: Climbing period (8516m/27,940ft).
29 May/Day 56: Preparation for return, trek from Everest base camp to Dingboche(4350m/14,271ft) 4hrs.Lodge accommodation.
30 May/Day 57: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860m/12,631ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.
31 May/Day 58: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,286ft, 4hrs) Lodge accommodation.
01 June/Day 59: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9,317ft) 7hrs.Lodge accommodation.
02 June/Day 60: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350m/4,430ft) 35mins.Transfer to hotel.
03 June/Day 61: Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu. Fair well-celebration dinner with culture program in the evening.
04 June/Day 62: Transfer to the airport for final departure.
Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:
Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.
Satori Adventures offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, base camp service and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All of our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route. Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions, oxygen and prepare high altitude food for the client. Full board also includes assisting the client on the route while ensuring their safety and well being.We move at the clients preferred pace and ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with the clients safety and well being being the overriding priority.
High camp service for the Full Board Service will consist of all of the equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen and Summit system mask regulators.
Satori Adventures provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize your summit opportunity.
In the base camp our chefs and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious, freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day. We will also ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the base camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpa’s have an extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and organize base camp operations. In base camp our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.
Satori Adventure focuses on comfortable conditions at base camp, including good quality food and other services. We find this helps clients with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetizing meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigorous ascent. We offer various choices that will suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, Vegan, continental, Indian and others. If you have special food consideration, please provide this to us 60 days prior to the expedition so we can plan the best meals for your trip.
The approach on its south side is through the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4900m). It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Tengaboche (36600m), Pheriche (4270m), Lobuche (4910m), Gorak Shep (5140m) to Lhotse Base Camp (5200m). It takes typically 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.