Rishiram Bhandari

+977-9851031006

Kathmandu Nepal

Broad Peak Expeditions(8051M/26414ft.) - 55 days

Broad Peak (8051m/26,414ft) is the 12th highest 8000m peak in the world.  It is classified as an AD (AssezDificille) climbing grade. Introduced in 1892 by the British explorer, Martin Conway. The English name is in reference to Breithom in the Alps. The summit of Broad peak is a long ridge that’salmost 2 km long. Thus, British explorer Conway claimed that Broad Peak’s name was a suitable name for this snowy capped peak. Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in the Baltistan region between the Pakistan and Chinese border. The peak is located in the Karakoram mountain range almost 8km from K2 and 5Km from Gasgerbrum II. After 1957, Broad peak (8051m/26,414ft) became famous when Australian Team leaders Mr. Marcus Schmuck and his team members Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl and Fritz Winter steller first summited around 11:00 am on June 8, 1957. The West Ridge is the standard on broad peak.

Satori Adventures Sherpa guides and previous climbers’have reported that there is almost 30m of blue ice and snow above the rocky level of Broad Peak’s summit. If it all melted away, the height of Broad peak would be only 8021m. This is the reason the peak is also known as Snowy Caped Peak. Debate about Broad Peak having one or two "real summits" has been going on for a long time. Although Central peak is not a separate summit, it is in favor of counting it as one point at the snow on the Col in between this summit and the main summit. Due to global warming, the snows are melting every year and Broad Peak central might qualify as the 15th highest 8000m peak. The snow on the true summit is melting and the fore summit may overtake it in height. The peak coordinates are 35°48′39″N longitude and 76°34′06″E latitude.

Satori Adventures operates a 53 day long expedition to Broad peak. We offer both full board or base camp logistic services. The duration may be longer or shorter depending on the client’s experience and ability. In Pakistan there are different systems to collect visa for expeditions then there is in Nepal. Each climber has to collect their Pakistan visa from their own country or nearest country with support of Permit applied documents through Satori Adventures. So we always need conformation before the end of February for participation in June, July and August. Once you arrive in Islamabad airport at Pakistan, a Satori Adventure representative will be waiting for you to welcome you with your playcard. After a day of rest and preparation in Islamabad you will have a 70 minute scenic mountain flight to Skardu. After a day of final preparation and briefing at the Tourism Department of Gilgit Baltistan you will be driving to Askole (3000m). From here you will begin your trekking route to Broad peaks Base Camp. With 6 days of panoramic and majestic mountain views the trekking takes you through Jhola, Piyu, Urdukas, Goro II, Shaqrine. Finally you will arrive at advanced base camp where you will spend a month acclimatizing and climbing .

Broad Peak base camp is setup around 4900-5000m. Satori’s team fixes four camps before the summit. Camp I is fixed around 6000m/19,685ft, Camp II is 6500m/21,325, Camp III is 7100m/23,294ft and Camp IV is 7500m/24,606ft. Our climbing teams spend only 7-8 hours at Camp IV before the summit push. The climbers have an adequate acclimatization period behind them so there is no need to spend any more time at Camp 4. Almost 40% of climbers return down to Camp III and 60% to Camp II after their summit success. It takes another 2 days to descend down to base camp.

Facts of the Trip

Highest access: (8051M/26414ft.)

First Ascent: June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger

Duration: 55 Days

Group Size: 02-10 people

Co-ordinates: 35°48′39″N 76°34′06″E

Location: Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China

Country: Pakistan

Airport: Islamabad

Departure From: Islamabad

Grade: Low technical difficulty

Accommodation: Three star hotel accommodaiton Islamabad and Skardu

Meals: Full board accommodaiton

Transportation: Flight, Jeep

Best season: Summer season

Major Activity: Trekking/Climbing

Include Activity: sight trip to K2 BC

Culture: Punjabis, Kashmiris, Sindhis, Muhajirs, Makrani

Mode of Travel: Tea house/Camping

Climbing route: West Ridge

Himalayan sights: K2 and G2

Route Map:

92broad peak west ridge1
Climbing Itinerary

Itinerary Details of Broad peak (8051m/26414ft.) Expedition:

15-16 June/ Day 01: Arrive at Islamabad Airport (540M / 1,770 ft.) Transfer to hotel for overnight.  

17 June/ Day 02: Free day at Islamabad for last moment preparation (540M / 1,770 ft.).

18 June/Day 03: Fly from Islamabad to Arrive at Islamabad Airport (540M / 1,770 ft.) Transfer to hotel for overnight.  

17 June/ Day 02: Free day at Islamabad for last moment preparation (540M / 1,770 ft.).

18 June/Day 03: Fly from Islamabad to Skardu (2230M/7316ft.) with Pakistan airlines. Upon arrival transfer to Hotel. In case of cancellation of flight then drive by coach to Chilas on Karakoram Highway O/N Lodges

19 June/Day 04: Chilas / Skardu - free day at Skardu(2230M/7316ft.).

20 June/Day 05: Skardu - Briefing at Tourism Department of Gilgit Baltistan. Final preparation at Skardu O/N Hotel  (2230M/7316ft.)

21 June/Day 06: Drive by Jeep from Skardu to Askole. (3000m/9843ft,) Camping accommodation.

22 June/Day 07: Trek from Askole to Jhola. (3200m/10498ft.) Camping accommodation

23 June/Day 08: Trek from Jhola to Paiyu. (3600m/11811ft.) Camping accommodation

24June/Day 09: Rest Day and acclimatization Paiyu. (3600m/10498ft.) Camping accommodation

25June/Day 10: Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas. (4200m/13780ft.) Camping accommodation

27 June/Day 11:  Trek from Urdukas to Goro II. (4500m/14764ft.) Camping accommodation

28 June/Day 12: Trek from Goro II to Broad peak Base Camp (4900m/16076ft.)

29- 29July/Day13-43: Climbing period of Broad peak Expedition (8051m/26414ft.).

30 July/Day 44: Trek back to Gore II (4500m/14764fft.) -9-10hrs Camping accommodation

31 July/Day 45: Trek from Gore II to Khuburtze(3600m/11811ft.)8-9hrs Camping accommodation.

01 August/Day 46: Trek from Khuburtse to Paiyu(3200m/10498ft.) 5-6hrs. Camping accommodation

02 August/Day 47:  Trek from Paiyu to Johla (3200m/10498ft.) 7-8 hrs. Camping accommodation

03 August/Day 48:  Trek from Johla to Askole. (3000m/9843ft,) 7-8hrs. Camping accommodation

04 August/Day 49: Drive from Askole by jeep to Skardu (2230M/7316ft.) Camping accommodation

05 August/Day 50: Farewell meeting (de-briefing) at Tourism Department of Gilgit Baltistan. O/N Hotel(2230M/7316ft.)

06 August/Day 51:  Fly from Skardu to Islamabad. Upon arrival transfer to hotel.  In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel. (540M / 1,770 ft.)

07 August/Day 52: Leisure day at Islamabad(540M / 1,770 ft.)and use the day in case of alternative.

08 August/Day 53: Drop to Airport for Final Departure Skardu (2230M/7316ft.) with Pakistan airlines. Upon arrival transfer to Hotel. In case of cancellation of flight then drive by coach to Chilas on Karakoram Highway O/N Lodges

09 August/Day 54: Leisure day at Islamabad(540M / 1,770 ft.)and use the day in case of alternative.

10 August/Day 55: Drop to Airport for Final Departure

Price

Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:

Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.

Full board & BC Service

Service Cost Includes:

  • (01) Arrival &Departure:Airport transfers-Airport/Hotel/Airport
  • (02) Hotel in Islamabad:3 nights in Islamabad4 star Hotel on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room
  • (03) Member transportation : Islamabad –Skardu by air Skardu to Askoly by jeep Askoly to Skardu by jeep Skardu to-Islamabad (by air)&and Staff transportation Islamabad to Askoly to Skardu by Jeep Skardu to Islamabad By bus
  • (04) Transportation:Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Member and Staffs From Islamabad –to Skardu by bus Skardu to Askoly (by jeep) –Base camp(by Porters)- base camp to Askoly (by porters) Askoly to Skardu (by jeep) Skardu to Islamabad by bus.
  • (05) Permit:Broad Peak expedition permit National park fees.
  • (06) Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer Garbage Deposit fees
  • (07) Lodging and fooding:Foods 3 meals a day during the trekking period and at base camp for member and staff.
  • (08) Cargo Clearance:International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes
  • (09) Liaison Officer:1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, accommodation.
  • (10) Base Camp Staff:Base camp Cook kitchen Helper
  • (11) Porter: Porters for each team member up to Base camp Porters return from Base camp
  • 12) Staff Salary and allowance: All staffs porters daily wages, equipment, food & clothing
  • (13) Insurance: All Staffs Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance
  • (14) Member Luggage:60 Kg per member for personal baggage
  • (15) Base Tent: Your own personal tent. Our two model types are:VE25 North face or Kailas tents for base camp for per member
  • (16) Base Camp equipment:Base camp foam mattresses, dinning, Kitchen, Toilet & Store tents, hot shower, Tables & chairs & Cooking gears
  • (17) Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp
  • (18) Light: 1 Solar panel for battery charge and light at base camp for use
  • (19) Dinner: one Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Islamabad with Staff 
  • (01-19) Base camp service
  • (21) Oxygen: (O2)-Poisk cylinder: 02 oxygen bottle for each member.              
  • (22) Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of top Out/Summit as require mask for each member and high altitude Sherpa guide
  • (23) Permit: Satellite Phone /walkies talkie will provide in sharing basis         
  • (24) High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 01 Climbing Sherpa guide per member and Climbing carry Bonus
  • (25) High camp service: Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for team member, high altitude Sherpa guide , high altitude tent, high food and fixing gear(C1) (C2) (C3)  (C4)and summit  and all Member's personal Sherpa should be involve for Rope Fixing
  • (1-24) Full Board Service  and 1-19 is for base camp service users

Service Cost Exclude:

  • (01) Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner in Islamabad Hotel stay and more the 4 nights in Islamabad Hotel
  • (02) Insurance : Travel and high altitude insurance ,accident, medical & emergency evacuation
  • (03) Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet,  Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment and shopping
  • (04) Pakistan's Visa: Pakistan Visa should take into your home country or should take and pay visa fees as per the rules and regulation of Pakistan Government.
  • (05) Rescue Evacuation:Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed and all other personal nature expenses.
  • (06)Summit bonus: Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpa guide US$ 1000.00
  • (07)About base camp:All Other service except permit, transportation, hotel accommodation and meal at the Advance base camp, Clients will have to arrange all service above base camp their own. Satori service will be “O” above Advance base camp for Base camp service user.
Satori climbing policy

Why climb with Satori Adventures in Broad Peak?

How to Choosing a experience Provider

It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.

Diminutive climbing Team members

We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.

Maximum summit Success;

The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.

Highly Qualified Sirdar/Team leader

Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.

Advanced Communication method

Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.

Facilities camp setup at Base Camp and Kitchen at camp two

Satori Adventure focuses on comfortable conditions at base camp, including good quality food and other services. We find this helps clients with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetizing meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigorous ascent. We offer various choices that will suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, Vegan, continental, Indian and others.If you have special food consideration, please provide this to us 60 days prior to the expedition so we can plan the best meals for your trip.

Approaches to ABC

The approach on its Cho-Oyu North face ridge Base camp is through the Kodari Boarder of Nepal leading up to Cho-Oyu Glassier. It starts with the drive from Kathmandu to Kodari Border After immigration formalities, drive to Naylam(3700M), to Tingri (4,300m) to Chinese Base Camp (5,150m). It takes typically 07 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

What to expect?

When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and continue to acclimate. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, our team of Sherpa’s will begin to open the route to camp I. When this is completed, our guides will begin to take clients and loads to camp I. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp I for a second night, or move up to camp II and then descend back to base camp.

Our team will then open the route and fix the lines to camp II and supply the camp with gear, equipment and food. If required for acclimation and if the weather conditions allow, you may sleep a second night at camp II, or proceed up to camp III and then return. During your rest and time at base camp our team will continue to open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.

After your camp I and II acclimatization, our climbing guides will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp I, camp II and then camp III before moving to the summit. At camp III you will awake at 0100 hours and begin the summit push.

If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return to base camp before the summit push, but still have climbing time, good weather conditions and climbers are interested for another summit push, we will provide one more opportunity. However, more than 98% of climbers either summit on the first try, or give up the trip after the first summit attempt.

Climbing Info

1.Company Responsibility

2.     Clients Responsibility 

3. Mode of Payment

4.  Cancellation Policy

   

Satori Adventures Pvt. Ltd

P. O. Box-21378, Naya Bazaar, Kathmandu, Nepal
  Phone: +977-1-4365127

   +977-9851031006

   [email protected]
   [email protected]

   www.satoriadventuresnepal.com