Ama Dablam Expedition is one of the most spectacular mountain climbing adventures in Nepal. The pyramidal shaped Mt. Ama Dablam stands at (6812m/22349ft.) and is one of the most impressive mountains in the world. Located just to the south of Everest and Lhotse it is distinguished by its vertical walls to the south and north as well as the sharp exposed ridges from all directions. Ama is considered the Matterhorn of the Himalaya. The Matterhorn of Himalayas leaves a lasting impression on many as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp. Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace" the long ridges on each side are like the arms of a mother protecting her child. The hanging glacier is thought of as the Dablam, which traditionally is worn by Sherpa woman as a double-pendant containing pictures of the gods. While trekking in the Khumbu on the trekking route to Everest Base Camp, Ama Dablam stands monolithically above Tengboche monastery. A pearl of beauty in itself that commands its surroundings and captures your attention by its presence alone. This expedition is a serious undertaking and is a strong prerequisite to Everest. In terms of technicality Ama Dablam is considered harder than Everest. It demands a high skill level in rock climbing and ice climbing; sufficient experience at high elevation and technical competency. Ama Dablams summit is located at 27°51'42'' N longitude and 86°51'40'' E latitude.
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatized to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 meters near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the original first ascend route along the Southwest Ridge. The climb is typically done with three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam, so that any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes away from the camp. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. You need to have a strong base of rock and ice climbing experience to climb this mountain. Most of the route on Ama Dablam is fixed, so climbers will need to be competent at ascending and descending fixed ropes and passing anchors. There is one pitch on the route that is just about dead vertical, so practice ascending a vertical fixed rope before the expedition.
As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May in the spring season and September-October-November in the autumn season. It is popular to combine the Ama Dablam expedition with a trek to Everest Base Camp or with an ascent of Island Peak. One of these two options serves as a very enjoyable way to acclimatize for the climb. Trekking to Everest Base camp is a very nice way to pay homage to Everest, the King of the Himalayas and to experience the classic Everest view from Kallapather. Combining Ama Dablam expedition with an Island Peak climb offers an extraordinary view of Everest from the summit, which in itself worthwhile ascetically and albeit an easy climbing experience.
The standard climbing route is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangements of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4500m. Camp 3 is located on the shoulder of the ridge just below and to the left of the last steep snow climb to the summit. Some years a camp 2.7 comes up which is tucked away on a narrow corner on the side of the southwest ridge between camp 2 and 3. Most climbers summit from camp 2 and do not establish a camp 3.
Ama Dablam base camp is one of the biggest grass base camps located in Nepal. It is rare to see such hospitable terrain at height of 4600m. Climbers will play volleyball and soccer at base camp to keep warm and enjoy the beautiful site. Base camp will be set up here for almost 45 days in both spring and autumn seasons. In the camp you will have great views Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde. Ama Dablam’s base camp is generally sunny due to its location, the sun is out early and stays late into the day. There are approximately 7-10 climbing teams each spring and autumn season. To provides these high facilities for climbers at the appropriate times we arrange climbing permits with your time frame in mind. Our guides and staff are always ready to establish different departure dates as requested by climbers.
The climb from Ama Dabalm base camp to camp one is easy a trekking trail with only a short section of casual rock scrambling that is 100m in length. It nearby camp one at a slope of 60º. Along the way you will scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, with no fixed rope in place. You will quickly come to learn that on Ama Dablams Southwest ridge there are not many places to put a tent. So there is some logistics and sharing that is required among climbers. Roughly there is only space for 6-7, two man tents and 6-7 single tents.
The climb from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on the route. You begin the day by scrambling and climbing along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge around several pinnacles and gendarmes, gaining only 300 meters/1000 vertical feet. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters which is considered French 4th class, British Severe, North American YDS 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower you will arrive at Camp 2 on small ledges. This will feel like a real big mountain high camp, high exposure on all sides. Be careful when you go to the toilet.
The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 shifts over to mixed, ice and snow terrain. This section also has fixed ropes along the entire distance. You will have great views of Ama Dablam base camp, Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is now time to traverse the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters/20,300 feet. Looking up at camp 3 (6300 meters/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Some strong climbers push for the summit from camp two. However Satori Adventures will always fix camp three before the summit. With that being said it is important to advise that this section of the mountain is at high risk for avalanches. So reducing the time spent at this camp or bypassing it completely is imperative. For clients not feeling strong enough to push from camp 2 we usually spend 6 hours here before starting for summit push. The route from the yellow tower to camp three is almost 55º of slop most of the way.
To summit from camp three and return back down to camp two takes most climbers about 10 hours. Summit day on Ama Dablam is a special one. Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid snow-ice (40º+) are climbed to the side of the Dablam. Once you are next to the Dablam you reach a fluted snow/ice field (30-50º) that leads you to one of the world’s finest summits. Here you will be rewarded will the best seat in the house to view the Khumbu, the epicenter of high altitude climbing. Stunning panoramic views of the Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma and Makalu come into view.
Highest access: 6,812m (22,334ft)
First Ascent: 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill & Wally Romanes(NZ), Barry Bishop(USA) & Mike Ward(UK)
Duration: 30 days (typically) Days
Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group.
Co-ordinates: 27°51'42'' N, 86°51'40'' E
Location: Nepal/Everest Region
Departure From: Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade: mixed Alpine AD
Accommodation: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L,D in during trekking and climbing
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B, L,D in during trekking and climbing
Transportation: Car, Jeep, Flight
Best season: spring: April-May and autumn: September-October
Major Activity: trekking/climbing
Include Activity: Scenic flight to Lukla
Culture: Sherpa and Tamang
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Southwest and northeast
Himalayan sights: Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Kongde
13 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft)
14 April/Day 02: Preparation, Briefings at Departments of tourism, Last minute shopping
15 April/Day 03: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8694ft, 04 hrs); lodge accommodation
16 April/Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu villages (3440m/11286ft, 06hrs); Lodge accommodation
17 April/Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization; you will be hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12487ft, 3hrs) to catch a glimpse of Everest; explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with slide show program.
18 April/Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850m/12631ft, 05-06 hrs); visit significant Buddhist monastery; lodge accommodation
19 April/Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4600m/15091ft, 5hrs)
20-8 May/D 8-27: Climbing period Summit Amadablam (6,812m/22,334ft)
09 May/Day 28: Preparation for return, trek to Tengboche (3860m/12631ft, 04 hours) lodge accommodation
10 May/Day 29: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286ft, 04hrs) lodge accommodation.
11 May/Day 30: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9317ft,7hrs) lodge accommodation
12 May/Day 31: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft); 35minutes, transfer to hotel
13 May/Day 32: Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu; Fair well-Celebration dinner with culture program in the Evening.
14 May/Day 33: Transfer to the airport for final departure
Satori Adventures has not able to include the cost of each package in the company website. Many of our clients have the same query: why Satori Adventures has not included the price in the package. To provide you service in reasonable cost and attempt to address your each requirement we desired to provide you with some information which directly affects the cost and also helps us breakdown the cost. That’s why, we have decided to clarify our customers that due to following reasons we have not included the cost in our website and package:
Due to the above position the price range for the same trip can vary widely. So, we would like to discuss with our client before offering the cost. Please feel free to contact Satori Adventures for any information about in your selected package.
Satori Adventures offers Full Board Service for our entire range of flagship Mountaineering Expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Our Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, an in-Base camp service and High camp service executed by your Sherpa Climbing Guide. All our Full Board clients will have a personal Sherpa Climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route; Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions and oxygen and prepare high altitude food for his client; Assist his client on the route and ensure client safety and well being on the route through guiding and negotiating the route access priorities at pace and schedule determined by clients’ physical condition and preferred pace; Ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with clients’ safety and well being as overriding priority.
High camp service for Full Board Service clients will consist of provision of all equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen, Summit system of Mask regulators in quantities specified in your climbing itinerary as per height of Mountain.
Satori Adventures provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24 hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.In base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In base camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our camp manager as well as guides and climbing Sherpa’s have an extensive experience on multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. In base camp our guides will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks such as route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.
It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.
Satori Adventure focuses on comfortable conditions at base camp, including good quality food and other services.We find this helps clients with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are regarded as the best in the business, providing wholesome and appetizing meals with an agreeable array of menus to suit all your food requirements. The meals you are served on the mountain are also of the highest standard and designed to sustain you for the rigorous ascent. We offer various choices that will suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, Vegan, continental, Indian and others. If you have special food consideration, please provide this to us 60 days prior to the expedition so we can plan the best meals for your trip.
From Southwest: It takes typically 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.Approach to the Base camp is short, sweet and beautiful beginning with the amazing flight to Lukla and following Everest Base camp trail through Namcha Bazaar to Pengboche and peeling off it just past Pangboche